Fashion and Finance 101: Undressed For Success

Forget the rise and fall of hemlines: Alan Greenspan's theory of "briefonomics" tracks sales of men's undergarments as a leading economic indicator. Typically, these numbers are relatively stable: everyone needs new underwear, right? Only in periods of extreme crisis do they drop, as they did steadily for most of 2008. By extension, increased sales suggest burgeoning consumer confidence.

Well, hold onto your shorts, gentlemen, because WWD reported Monday that underwear sales were up 4.5% for the first half of 2009 (according to NPD Group's market research analysts). And they continue to climb, which could mean America's economic recovery is poised to happen sooner rather than later.

This optimistic news inspired us to shop for skivvies, and Go Softwear's "English-Cut" cotton-and-bamboo boxer brief quickly became a new favorite. The basic shape suggests vintage athletic togs (think Chariots of Fire) but its low rise, slim fit, and snappy, red-striped waistband are very up-to-date. Go ahead: invest some money in yourself and the economy. You'll end up looking good while doing some good.

www.gosoftwear.com

The Bag As Artifact & Symbol of Grace Under Fire

Ah, the secret world of women's purses, handbags, satchels and the like. I often ask female friends to detail the contents of their bags, and most of them know to the last mint what's socked away in each corner: BlackBerry, makeup kit, wallet, newspaper, magazines (important pages dog-eared or flagged with color-coded tabs), sunglasses, water bottle, flip-flops (or sneakers, in winter), hand sanitizer, SHOUT stain removing wipes, assorted pens, Motrin, and enough sundries to stock a small pharmacy. And that's just for starters–most professions (including motherhood) add to the checklist. An odd, and seemingly contradictory corollary, states that no matter what size a bag may be, it will be filled to capacity. The anthropologist in me can't help but suspect this all goes back to our days as hunters and gatherers.

There is no single, perfect bag, of course, but certain things are key. Handbags are fun for special lunches and afternoon events, and they're killer status items, but as functioning elements in the average woman's wardrobe, they hardly register. Totes seem practical, but they're often very heavy when full (see corollary above), and most won't slip over a shoulder (even Diana, goddess of the hunt, carried a shoulder bag of sorts–a quiver). The best day-to-day bags have adjustable straps so their fit can be personalized; they're neither too small nor too big; and they're tough enough to bear constant stress while looking chic and breezy. Rather like society expects of women themselves.

Gucci's new Icon Bit bag strikes me as a contender. It's of medium size, with smart pleats that expand or contract (and mold around a woman's side when squashed under her arm); it has a practically-perfect shoulder strap with beautiful hardware; and it purrs luxury instead of screaming "look at me." This purple suede is especially pretty; but there are also black or cream calfskin versions and a very glamorous model in shiny black python. The popular press has eulogized the passing of the "status bag," but what comes next? We say, "The Status Bag is dead. Long live the (new) Status Bag."

www.gucci.com

Emma Watson: Bewitched, Bothered & Burberryed

It's August, and miserably hot in New York, but for fashion followers that means one thing: some of the year's best clothes and accessories are popping up in stores. It also means fall ad campaigns are breaking, and one can only imagine the agonized deliberations behind their creation. Globally, 2009 has been an annus horribilis for luxury goods (brands saw revenues drop anywhere from 10 to 80 percent), leaving companies in a tight spot: having precious little money to spend on advertising at a time when advertising is, in fact, precious.

Burberry's solution was to go in swinging, thanks to the combined talents of a veritable fashion A Team: the company's creative director, Christopher Bailey; ace photographer Mario Testino; and a cast of handsome British lads. They shot in Westminster, on the Thames (giving them home advantage) and, to seal the deal, brought in a last-minute player with serious star power–19-year-old actress Emma Watson, of Harry Potter movie fame.

FA2L is not, in general, a fan of celebrities trying to be models (or vice versa, for that matter). However, Watson is utterly charming in these pictures, and also completely natural: she's as English as clotted cream and prettier than the industry's current cast of interchangeable, poker-faced Russian girls. (As Mark Wahlberg, aka "Marky Mark," said about another Brit, Kate Moss, "Oh, she's got freckles.") Forget the Revolutionary call, "The British are coming," because it's already too late. The British are here, and they're well ahead of the game.

www.burberry.com

An FA2L First Look: Tumi's Got a Brand New Bag

While everyone's been preoccupied with recession, depression and general economic malaise, Tumi slowly edged its way into the luxury market. Granted, it was never an inexpensive product: it's always been built tough, using good materials. In fact, this editor often relied on two enormous garment bags-on-wheels for fashion shoots (including one produced on an African safari). But ballistic nylon isn't exactly chic.

Several years, ago, however, the company introduced its "Townhouse" collection of handsome trunks, suitcases, and small leather goods. Suddenly, editorial antennae everywhere started to vibrate, and it wasn't long before Tumi jumped onto the shortlist of desirable (as opposed to merely practical) travel gear.

This September, the company is taking another big step. Two unisex pieces–a document envelope and a slim, top-handled portfolio–will be available in French-tanned American alligator. We approve. Ballistic nylon is great for flak jackets, but a sleek briefcase like this says "Master of the Universe" loud and clear.

www.tumi.com

Haute Couture's Own Secret Language of Flowers

For many people, couture brings to mind a list of grand names stretching back 120 years: Worth, Patou, Chanel, Dior. But a very real part of France's glorious apparel industries has always been her petites mains–the small army of seamstresses, pattern makers, embroiderers and the like, whose artistry creates the stage upon which couturiers dance. Diana Vreeland knew this: within weeks of 1944's Liberation of Paris, she asked French colleagues to send "one perfect black organdie rose." This was a litmus test: Vreeland scrutinized her flower and determined it was as well-made as anything produced before the war. Whereupon she swept from her office into the halls of Harper's Bazaar to bellow her pronouncement: The Couture had survived!

In fact, at that time there were literally hundreds of small, independent French businesses supplying specialized work to the larger couture industry. It's shocking to realize most of them have disappeared, driven to extinction by changing tastes, rising labor costs and shifting priorities. These days, few young people care to own or even learn about something as quaint as a handmade silk flower–and fewer still would choose a career in this now-obscure area of expertise.

Today, there's only one company in Paris making couture-quality flowers: Maison Legeron. In business since 1880, it's still run by the original family (the current manager is a great-grandson of the founder). Most work is done by hand, often with the same equipment used in decades past. Silk is pinned on wooden frames, then dipped in liquid gum, starch or even flour; textured materials, like velvet, feathers or fur are coated with a brush (or left dry). Metal punchers, like big cookie cutters, are used to stamp out different types of flowers, after which the petals are carefully molded and hand-painted. Then they're gathered, massed, twisted and tweaked into shape, and finished with anything from sequins to more natural-looking leaves and stems.

Most of these small works of art are sold to couture houses, but Couture Lab offers a few of Maison Legeron's floral brooches. They're not expensive, but their effect is stunning: even a single large flower, worn at the neck, hip or wrist, transforms a simple dress into something extraordinary. You may not care to invest your money–or time–in custom-made clothing, but these unique flowers streamline the process. Just pick a bouquet, have it delivered and enjoy the haughty thrill of wearing one small piece of French couture.

www.legeron.com
www.couturelab.com

Christian Roth Says 2010 Looks Good From Here

This year, Christian Roth eyewear celebrates its 25th birthday. Actually, it's more like a silver anniversary–many people don't know that the brand is a partnership between German-born Roth and Frenchman Eric Domège, who met in New York in the early '80s and launched their own firm in 1984. Over the course of two-and-a-half decades, they've designed and produced hundreds of beautiful (and beautifully-made) frames for discerning customers; and a more recent partnership with Japanese manufacturer Charmant has continued to expand their global reach.

This bold pair of sunglasses, "Neo-Geo," winks at the '80s, but its novel layering of curved and angled edges–and light and dark shapes–makes it strikingly new. It's part of Christian Roth's 2010 collection, which starts arriving in stores this month along with other early Fall deliveries. You can find it at Bergdorf Goodman, New York (or call 1.800.558.1855). Buy it now, and spend the rest of the summer looking very next season.

www.christian-roth.com