Fashion As a 2nd Language

When New York City Was Fashion's State of Mind

2011-11-03T17:41:00.011-04:00

Strange but true: American fashion, even in the second decade of the 21st century, owes most of its residual power (such as it is) to a unique cultural explosion that happened in New York City, circa 1976-81. At the time, the bright glow of neon lights tended to obscure that era's darker currents; but just choose a vice (flagrant hedonism and/or narcissism, hyped-up celebrity, overt and covert sexuality, rampant drug use and all manner of scandalous behavior) and you'll find ample proof it flourished in mid-to-late-'70s Manhattan. And since excess is always fascinating, it's no surprise that current designers–including the very youngest–still look back to that period for resonant inspiration.

Photographer Rose Hartman was there, camera in hand, and many of the pictures she took in that decadent heyday still speak loud and clear. Her book, Birds of Paradise (1980), offered a remarkably insightful look at fashion's "big picture" (at FA2L, we keep a copy by our bedside), and introduced readers to larger-than-life personalities like Diana Vreeland (then at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute), Steve Rubell (owner of Studio 54) and Candy Pratts Price (who'd already made a name for herself designing edgy windows at Bloomingdale's). Hartman is still very much on the go, but her archives are earmarked for the Fashion Institute of Technology–the site of this evening's opening-night party to celebrate an exhibit of 60 of Hartman's photographs representing Incomparable Women of Style. That would certainly include Apollonia, above, a lithe Dutch model with a sexy-yet-doll-like face who took NYC by storm. Stop by F.I.T.'s Gladys Marcus Library before January 20 to see this rara avis (and others) for yourself.

Levi's Plus Filson: A Case of Double Happiness

2011-08-11T17:28:00.000-04:00

We love Levi's (founded in 1873, the same year the company patented and made its first blue jeans) and we love Filson, too (1897), so it naturally follows we're crazy about some of the products in the collaborative collection known as Levi's Workwear by Filson. We own a handsome, no-nonsense denim-and-canvas tote with leather handles (from a previous collection) and we're often stopped by discerning guys-around-town who want to know: Where can I find that bag? We suspect lots of men will respond similarly to this Hunter Trucker jacket in sturdy, oiled Shelter Cloth, complete with interior zipper (overlapped by a buttoned front), a moleskin collar, and Levi's distinctive front pockets. So this time, we're alerting readers (and all style-conscious men) in advance: Buy this jacket now, or regret not doing so later...

Fashion Moments: Lady Gaga Makes An Entrance

2011-06-07T20:47:00.050-04:00

Lady Gaga arrives at the CFDA Awards. Photograph by Tommy Ton/Style.com

Fashion is a 2nd Language–but any style-sensitive observer worth her Mugler couture knows one picture is worth 10,000 words. The eagle-eyed Tommy Ton managed to be in precisely the right place at exactly the right time to catch Lady Gaga's descent from Mount Olympus, just as her toes touched the earth and her tulle skirt unfurled. Even her turquoise bob was glowing with an otherworldly light. The lesson? Fashion moments happen at lightspeed; blink, and you'll miss one.

For Dads, Grads & Other Lads: College Cuff Links

2011-05-21T21:14:00.000-04:00

If you're still looking for a graduation present for a young man leaving college, or something for Father's Day, we'd like to suggest a pair of "College Colors" cuff links by the rather oddly-named (but very fine) American company, Baade II. Here at FA2L, we have a real horror of one-sided, "T"-backed or otherwise cheap-looking cuff links, but these beauties are the real deal: solid sterling silver or gold, with beautiful, hand-enameled cloisonné or champlevé vitreous faces. And the range of colors is extensive, so the school–and the man–you want to honor are sure to be represented.

The House of Orange: Fashion & Luxury Royalty

2011-05-17T19:46:00.000-04:00

Sometimes, it's just about the shoes–in this case, a canvas peep-toe bootie on a stacked heel and platform, trimmed in orange leather, buckled up the back and laced up the front. Who makes it? Isn't it obvious? There ought to be a Pantone color named Hermès orange...

Brit Fashion: An Empire Built on Understatement

2011-04-15T16:40:00.003-04:00

We'll quickly admit (at the drop of a chapeau, in fact) to loving most things French, but–surprise, surprise!–we're also closet Anglophiles. Why? Pretty peaches-and-cream complexions, witty turns-of-phrase and manners honed to kill with such kindness, you don't realize you've been stabbed until your adversary's left the room. Glorious. Then, there are all those retro-minded clothing and accessories companies dating back a hundred years or so–the Mackintoshes, Harris Tweeds and Globe-Trotters of the world–still turning out quirky-but-practical classics (now with modern twists). What would we do without them?

Another name on the list is Sunspel, a brand we've long admired for making underwear and tee shirts so old-fashioned, they look new again. This one's been around since 1860 (when Queen Victoria sat on the throne), but in recent years the company's been updating its image while remaining slightly under the sweep of Fashion's radar. But that may soon change. This summer, Sunspel is launching a collection of polo shirts and tees drawn from its archives, and we suspect lots of stylish guys (and girls) will want to own at least one. As they say, order now to avoid disappointment. And wave that Union Jack with pride.

Photograph courtesy of Sunspel

A Watch For Men With All the Time in the World

2011-04-02T19:23:00.107-04:00

For several years now, we've been following Louis Vuitton's determined-but-cautious steps into the world of haute horlogerie (fine watchmaking), from the brand's awkward first attempts to its recent, and much more respectable, high-end efforts. In the company's favor, LV has at least shown enough savvy to learn from past mistakes, and its perseverance now seems to be paying off.

This handsome timepiece, above, presented at the recent Basel watch fair, is a good case in point. It bears a big name–the Louis Vuitton Voyagez Tambour Automatic Chronograph Tachymeter–and an impressive pedigree: chronograph movements made by the distinguished Swiss manufacturer, Dubois Dépraz. Equally important, the entire watch-as-objet is particularly well-designed (which, surprisingly, isn't always the result when fashion companies turn their hands to fine watches), with a 44mm grey steel case, beautifully-aligned sub-dials and a sleek, carbon-fiber strap. Like the Hoover Dam or the Chrysler Building, it looks retro, contemporary and futuristic, all at once. Wear it and feel ahead of your time.

Valentine's Day Surprises for Him, Her and You

2011-01-30T15:35:00.070-05:00

Valentine's Day–there, we said it. It's a freaky holiday that can be utterly sublime or incredibly ridiculous, depending on your partner's taste (or lack thereof). Two dozen red roses? No thank you. Chocolates? Perhaps–but only if they come from La Maison du Chocolat. Red silk undergarments? Not our thing: but while we're talking underwear, we wouldn't say no to a sexy little something from Armor-lux, Zimmerli, Roberto Cavalli or Missoni (please, no baggy plaid boxers or ugly briefs with logo waistbands). For the woman in your life who's partial to lingerie, we recommend Sabbia Rosa (which essentially requires a trip to Paris), La Perla or the super-chic ERES. If a bit more oomph is required, try Agent Provocateur (which just opened its second New York store, on Madison Avenue).

But there's no reason to stick with chocolates or lingerie. For your chic boyfriend, anything from Balmain's men's collection, Lanvin, or, if he's on the preppier side, Alexander Olch (not to mention Band of Outsiders) will make him smile. Your chic girlfriend? What could be nicer than devastating pumps from Christian Louboutin? Finally, if price is no object, something extraordinary–like the Cassel Pink Diamond (4.71 carats), set in an antique ring, above, and currently available at Rau Antiques in New Orleans–is the way to go. Especially if your Valentine happens to be...yourself. Fashion is fleeting, love burns hot (and may die,) but diamonds are everyone's best friends.

We Sing the Body Electric (and Fashionable)

2011-01-11T17:22:00.055-05:00

Here at FA2L, we understand that fashion is about more than clothes: it touches every aspect of human culture, from architecture to furniture design to trends in cooking, art and parenting. Spookily enough, it also affects how the human body itself is perceived and presented. At the turn of the 19th century, for example, fashionable women's bodies were encased in corsets to produce the era's most-preferred,"S"-shaped form. By the 'teens, those same bodies (sans corsets) looked more and more tubular; and by the '20s, so-called waistlines had dropped to the hips, hair was cropped short and busts were often bandaged flat.

But women aren't the only sex to struggle with body issues: the male form has also been subject to fashion's changing whims. In the 20th century alone, men went from being celebrated as sleek, Art Deco icons (think Gary Cooper) to broad-shouldered, married-with-family types (William Holden, perhaps) to slim-hipped, long-haired rock & rollers like Mick Jagger. Then, in the early '80s, Bruce Weber trained his fashion-conscious lens on a specific breed: guys who were just as photogenic as girls (and just as pretty), but exaggeratedly masculine at the same time. This combination proved so powerful, it's been used to sell everything from Calvin Klein underwear to Gillette razors. Its current brokers are Milan's fashion elite–brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and DSquared2 (whose Spring '11 campaign, above, features the Adonis-like Diego Miguel, photographed by Mert & Marcus). Of course, digital retouching has also upped the ante, rendering fashion's young gods and goddesses virtually perfect. So–are you ready for your close-up?

We ♥ Cartier, Version 2.0: An Updated LOVE

2010-11-11T15:40:00.058-05:00

Tinkering with an icon is tricky business: sometimes it works (VW's rounder, cuter, enormously popular reissued Beetle, for example) and sometimes it falls flat (New Coke, anyone?). So when we heard that Cartier was launching more jewelry based on its famous 1970 LOVE bracelet (above, left), we held our breath. Now, having seen the pieces unveiled, the verdict is in–many of the new designs are charming and easy to wear (though we still prefer the original), and there seems to be something for everyone. So one, two, three...and exhale.

The reason we prefer the original has more to do with symbolism than anything else: there's something deeply romantic about fixing a bracelet on one's wrist (using a Cartier screwdriver, of course) and never removing it. We're also fans of yellow gold and think the LOVE bracelet looks its best in that metal. These days, however, many people want white metals: hence the new collection's earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings in white or yellow gold (and black ceramic), with diamonds or colored stones. Our favorite is a white gold bracelet (above, right) with blue and pink sapphires, purple spinels, amethysts and aquamarines. It's built like the original, but brought up-to-date for 2010. If only all revamped classics could be as good.

Photograph by Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier 2010

Pyrenex & Alexis Mabille: Braving the Elements

2010-10-18T18:29:00.034-04:00

We ♥ New York, but not its winters: they're icy, cold and just plain l-o-n-g. So although it's only October, and still relatively mild, we're already planning ahead–which is why this jacket caught our eye. It's part of a capsule collection designed by Alexis Mabille for Pyrenex, a 150-year-old French company specializing in high-quality goose down. If this coat's details are any indication, the partnership–Pyrenex x Alexis Mabille–is just about perfect. (We especially like the quilting, the removable hood, the many pockets and the two-way zipper.) Buy it online via Studio Homme and prepare to laugh at Mother Nature.

Azzedine Alaïa: Fashion's Rebel With a Cause

2010-10-11T17:23:00.042-04:00

Fashion's faithful may all worship in different temples–but most make a pilgrimage, sooner or later, to the altar of Azzedine Alaïa. In the larger context of "designer fashion," Alaïa is an anomaly: he ignores trends, turns away retailers who rub him the wrong way and shows (and ships) collections according to his own idiosyncratic schedule. Which at least partially explains why, on Sunday, October 10–several days after most of the fashion flock had left Paris–Alaïa sent his models down his runway for the benefit of a favored few.

Women worship Azzedine Alaïa because Alaïa worships women–it's that simple. Few designers understand a woman's curves better than this nimble Tunisian, which has kept him in demand for 30 years. What did Stephanie Seymour wear to marry Peter Brant in 1995? A clingy white Alaïa gown literally sewn onto her by the designer. What did Naomi Campbell don for her recent court appearance in The Hague? A prim-yet-sexy cream Alaïa dress with a matching cardigan. And what have supermodels, socialites and other beauties been clamoring for since 1980? Alaïa, Alaïa and more Alaïa.

Sunday's show offered classics (like the slinky white column, above left), but some twists, too–namely, ballerina-like silhouettes pairing fitted tops with short, full skirts (imagine Dégas' Little Dancer as Daria and you'll have the idea). Alaïa is no stranger to full skirts, but this was a slight departure–the flare he gives to a skirt has typically sprung from the hip rather than this season's waist. It's a great look, but you've got to have the figure–and, more importantly, the legs–to carry it off. Fashion's gods are many things, but they're not forgiving.

At Versace Home, Bigger & Bolder is Better

2010-10-07T16:02:00.036-04:00

Over the years, the Versace Home collection has been hit-or-miss: for every spectacular silk sheet set or porcelain place setting, there's been a handful of less-than-stellar offerings. Lately, however, everything from the men's and women's clothing collections to the brand's image campaigns has been wrestled back into shape. A new, higher standard seems to be the order of the day.

Case in point: Versace Home is now collaborating with the world-famous Venini, an 85-year-old Murano glass making firm, to produce limited-edition bowls and vases. Like many Versace designs, they're not for everyone, but we like them a lot. For one thing, they resonate like original notes from the '80s, playing perfectly into that decade's current revival. They're also big, bold and brash enough to sweep snobbery aside. Sometimes, good taste is just a matter of muscle.

If the World is Your Oyster, Van Cleef Has its Pearl

2010-09-26T16:50:00.037-04:00

OK, we admit it: we have a real weakness for pink gold. And for bold rings. And, for that matter, for Van Cleef & Arpels. Over the years, we've enjoyed working with some of the house's highest of high jewelry, as well as some of its simplest. So imagine our pleasure, walking into VC&A's New York boutique on Fashion's Night Out, to discover its new Perlée collection of pink or white-gold earrings, bracelets and rings (named for those tiny, pearl-like beads). Heaven.

In fact, this perfect little collection has something for everyone, from relatively plain gold bands to flashier styles set with diamonds. And while everything's beautifully made (this is Van Cleef, after all) it's also blissfully free of pretension: most items are so simple and charming, an extravagant uncle, aunt or godparent could even bestow one on a lucky child. Understanding, of course, that Mom would have to keep it safe by wearing it herself (at least for a few years).

At Zilli, Perfection Is All in the (Many) Details

2010-09-05T21:35:00.041-04:00

A custom shirt is a little luxury that can make any man feel like Master of the Universe–in the hands of talented tailors, fabric can be coaxed into flattering difficult skin tones, strengthening awkward faces and camouflaging less-than-perfect figures. Think of it as a sort of sartorial sleight-of-hand.

Here at FA2L, we've been lucky enough to enjoy the work of some of the world's best shirt makers–Charvet, Luigi Borrelli and Kiton among them. Most recently, we met the custom director for French label, Zilli. He took some 2o measurements (a "difficult" customer may require 3o) while explaining that he sources fabrics from mills around the world: England, Italy and Switzerland. We chose a sky blue Italian linen. We also chose to add our monogram just below the rib cage, on the left side–hand embroidered in white, with a navy drop shadow, no less.

A month or so later, a lovely box arrived in the mail–and inside was the most beautiful shirt we've ever owned. The collar is crisp, flattering and beautifully mounted; the body is elegantly trim, with long, luxurious tails that tuck perfectly into jeans or khakis; and the monogram is impossibly chic. But then, as the company's US director says, "At Zilli, to be fantastic is a daily task." Our assessment? Mission accomplished.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Parker at dna models. Fashion assistant: Evie Cutshaw.

Levi's Curve ID for Women: It's a Booty Call

2010-08-24T10:53:00.047-04:00

No item of clothing is more basic than blue jeans, but finding a flattering pair is difficult for many women. Levi's hopes to change that with Curve ID, which FA2L recently previewed at the company's New York store on lower Broadway. Our shapely intern (let's call her E.V.) stood patiently while she was measured for her differential–the slope of her curves–and questioned about past experiences: Did waistbands tend to gap? Were jeans that fit her hips too tight elsewhere? Then she was handed two pairs and asked to give them a try.

It's nice when a woman comes out of a dressing room wearing a big smile–and E.V. positively glowed with the combination of sun-kissed skin, good hair (new cut and color) and a pair of bum-flattering, medium-dark jeans that hugged her curves and made her legs look impossibly long. She'd tried on the salesperson's first suggestion, and was so happy she didn't bother with a second opinion. Of course, new jeans require new shoes (and words like Christian Louboutin definitely entered that conversation). Men of New York, beware! E.V. is stepping out, and you guys won't know what's hit you.

Photograph courtesy of Levi's

Addicted to the Scissor Sisters: Any Which Way

2010-08-12T16:25:00.004-04:00

From Fashionable Travel to Fashion As Furniture

2010-08-11T20:24:00.054-04:00

It's rare to find old Louis Vuitton trunks in good condition, because cases like this usually saw hard use over many years of service. Before air travel turned global circumnavigation into mere hops, skips and jumps, intrepid voyagers packed at least a month's worth of clothes and necessities into serious luggage; loaded it onto carriages, wagons or lorries; transferred it to ocean liners; collected it on the further shore; and continued the process indefinitely. Even a single Grand Tour could sorely test the strength of corners, locks and hinges (not to mention human limits of patience and endurance).

Still, trunks do show up from time to time, and they're always in great demand–not as trunks per se, since only old-school nomads and those hoping to mimic them bother schlepping gear in such an impractical way, but as status coffee tables. Rau Antiques, in New Orleans, currently has two low trunks like the one above, and an enormous, upright wardrobe that would look spectacular in a loft or a walk-in closet. Obviously, they're very expensive, but they're also good investments: the asking price for cases like this tends to go up every year. And even stuffing money in your mattress won't accomplish that.

PETROU\MAN: An Officer, Gentleman & Punk

2010-08-03T20:35:00.051-04:00

New York is first and foremost the home of classic sportswear, but its runways and showrooms offer plenty of surprises in the realm of "forward" fashion. Last season, we came across an aggressive collection by Nicolas Petrou, who's toiled at other companies more than 15 years but recently launched his own line, PETROU\MAN, for which he's designing clothes refreshingly in and out of sync with current trends.

Diana Vreeland loved to say that Coco Chanel had very little taste, but all of it was good, whereas Elsa Schiaparelli (Chanel's rival, and a spectacularly inventive designer) had loads of taste, most of it bad. In other words, too much "good taste" can sometimes get in the way of good fashion. We happen to like Petrou's clothes because they're beautifully made but slightly outré: there's an odd, raffish quality to these pieces that suggests layers of traditional British tailoring, early-80s punk rebellion (all those safety pins!) plus a dollop of cool minimalism from the mid-90s. That's a lot to juggle, which is undoubtedly why the collection is only being sold at directional stores like Bellhaus, New York, and Joyce, in Hong Kong. (Of course, you can also check with the New York showroom–just call, or write, and ask very, very nicely.) Meanwhile, the safety pin jacket alone is a thing of beauty–worth, perhaps, even a ticket to China.

From top: 1) Wool tweed anorak and stretch pullover by PETROU\MAN. Velvet scarf by Maison Martin Margiela. 2) Wool topcoat, pants and cotton shirt by PETROU\MAN. Cotton scarf by Dior Homme. Boots by Christian Lacroix Homme. 3 & 4) Tie-dyed cotton jacket with safety pin shoulder details and wool drawstring pants by PETROU\MAN. Cotton shirt by Dior Homme. Stainless steel watch by Baume & Mercier. 5) Leather jacket by PETROU\MAN. Cotton shirt by Costume National Homme.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Parker at dna models. Fashion assistant: Evie Cutshaw.

In Fashion Land, It's Always Christmas in July

2010-07-29T01:36:00.040-04:00

Christmas in July is fashion shorthand for an annual ritual–the unveiling of holiday collections during the hottest month of the year. It's a holdover from earlier eras of long magazine lead times, but we sometimes wonder if it still holds sway because it enforces a certain Darwinian ruthlessness. (Think of it as natural selection for party frocks.) As temperatures climb into the 90s and overheated editors schlep from one appointment to another, their patience, and attention spans, shorten dramatically. Products have one, brief moment in which to shine or wither away. Further proof that fashion is not for weaklings.

Jerome C. Rousseau's tartan pump probably wasn't designed with Yuletide in mind (Vivienne Westwood seems a more likely inspiration than Father Christmas), but seeing it reminds us that so-called holiday items will hit the shelves or be available online anytime between now and the holidays themselves. And therein lies the problem. Most women wouldn't wear this shoe every day, so they don't think to buy it now; however, there are plenty who will miss having it in their closets when parties roll around and it's long-gone from stores. In other words, strike while the iron is hot (whatever that means). It's the beautiful things you don't buy you always regret.

Oribe Sprinkles Moon Dust in Your Hair of Gold

2010-07-26T23:08:00.080-04:00

On a recent photo shoot, we watched, fascinated, as Davide Marinelli, a stylist at De Berardinis, New York, used Oribe's 24k Gold Pomade (sold at the salon) to tame Parker's tumbling surfer curls. The product itself is gorgeous–real gold suspended in liquid pomade that looks like molten metal, packaged in an embossed tub worthy of Gianni Versace–and the effect is literally brilliant. Using his fingers, Marinelli applied it along grouped strands; and with each coat, Parker's sun-streaked hair glowed more and more. It brought to mind Marlene Dietrich's wily movie star trick of sifting gold powder over her platinum locks, to catch the director's key lights and form a halo around her head. Of course, in Parker's case the effect was more '80s Bruce Weber-golden boy than '30s silver screen, but that's fashion for you. Each generation seeks a glamorous new version of the Midas touch.

Photograph by Noël Sutherland. Grooming by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis, New York. Model: Parker at dna models. Fashion assistant: Evie Cutshaw.

Bozeman Watch: Designed in Sight of the Rockies

2010-07-18T16:40:00.131-04:00

We love Montana: it's a big, gorgeous, unpretentious state with so much beautiful scenery it looks untouched by whatever happens anywhere else. Ted Turner owns a ranch south of Livingston large enough for bison herds; he also runs a decent steakhouse in Bozeman, where some of those animals end up on the menu. We stumbled across this handsome watch while shopping along Bozeman's Main Street–it's part of a limited series designed by the Bozeman Watch Company, one of few American brands specializing in mechanical timepieces. And although it's made of Swiss and German components (and partially assembled in Switzerland), it has a bold, no-nonsense American sensibility we find very attractive.

This particular model, the Cutthroat 2nd Edition, is named for a native trout that's been luring fishermen to Montana's rivers season after season. It's big (42mm in diameter), housed in a stainless steel case and mounted on a simple leather strap. There are no unnecessary gimmicks, just a sweeping seconds hand, a date window and markers around the outer dial (plus a red-tipped indicator) providing 24-hour GMT. Questions? Visit the website by clicking the company's name, above, or call 1-877-878-1780. Don't be shy: as is the case everywhere in Montana, the people we met in Bozeman couldn't have been nicer.

Wonder Years: Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture

2010-07-14T23:25:00.032-04:00

Last week, the small group of designers who still call themselves couturiers showed their collections in Paris. Some offerings were astonishingly good: Stéphane Rolland's intricately draped mini dresses and long mermaid gowns, Givenchy's vaguely-medieval yet futuristic garments (which could be worn with equal aplomb by 20-something Lady Gaga or 40-something Gloria Guinness) and Karl Lagerfeld's shimmering spill of combustible Chanel, dredged from the depths of his limitless imagination. But two men, at least, were conspicuously absent: Valentino Garavani, who has left the business; and Yves Saint Laurent, who has left the world.

We wonder–do young fashion initiates roll their eyes at the mention of Yves Saint Laurent? It's possible, especially since his later career involved reworking a small set of elements he'd decided were integral to a chic woman's life. Season after season, he offered simple dresses, navy pea coats, perfect jackets and practical tuxedos. And yet, for all his emphasis on wardrobe staples, he could just as easily shake out his handkerchief and scatter flights of fancy like a flock of parakeets.

One such magical display happened in 1988 and yours truly had, if not a ringside seat, then something in the fourth row orchestra, dead center. The setting was Vogue magazine, B.A. (before Anna), and Irving Penn had photographed the Spring couture. In that era, the images were on large-format film, and the long strips were coiled in a flimsy box. (Penn had been shooting for Vogue more than 40 years–he obsessed about photographic details but didn't sweat the small stuff.) It was my job to cut the strips into manageable lengths–something that had caused me great anxiety at first; imagine cutting into Irving Penn's film!–and spread them on light tables in the art department. Then I'd alert Mr. Liberman, Miss Mirabella and the sittings editor, Polly Mellen. But for 15 minutes, while snipping madly, I had the images all to myself. And I was beyond dazzled.

Yves Saint Laurent had taken inspiration from Braque, and done so in a way that literally allowed Christy Turlington or Katoucha to step inside the artist's collages. A naïf guitar (beautifully sequined and beaded) formed the stomacher of one dress; birds hovered in preposterous places on others; and, in a picture that would become the story's opening spread, above, a shocking pink dove wrapped one wing around the neck of that era's Most Beautiful Girl In the World and clasped the front of her gown in its beak. As for me, I was blinded by the light, and could never look at clothes–any clothes–the same way again.

A Phoenix From the Ashes: The House of Versace

2010-07-06T18:15:00.034-04:00

It's been a long time since we've felt anything more than nostalgic fondness for Versace products, but Donatella & Co recently kicked everything back into high gear. This was evident on Versace runways the last few seasons, and Fall's message is even stronger thanks to Mario Testino's slightly-tacky/mostly-chic (and decidedly in-your-face) ad campaign. All the elements are there: gorgeous girls, gorgeous boys, killer styling and really good clothes (the top photograph alone makes us want to run out and buy that leather jacket). Best of all, there's not a Medusa head, Greek key or logo in sight–which, for the house that Gianni built, truly represents a brave new design stance.

It's Summer, and the Wardrobe Should Be Easy

2010-06-30T23:57:00.059-04:00

Here at FA2L, we love summer clothes but ask a lot of them: they should be comfortable, hold up to considerable wear and tear and, above all, look effortless–when it's 90 degrees in the shade, no one appreciates tricky effects. But that doesn't mean abandoning fashion.

In other words, there are basics, and then there are chic basics. So instead of flip-flops (best kept for the beach), women might want to consider French Sole's comfy, quilted leather ballerina flats from Manhattan's new French Sole Comfort store. Men, if the occasion calls for a tie, should skip heavy silk and try cotton knit versions by J.M. Dickens. As for hats, they're not just good-looking, they're smart: they protect your face and scalp from the broiling sun. This one's by Rod Keenan, who imbues each design with personality to spare. Meanwhile, "the basics" have been left far behind in the wake of a stylish summer.

Polaroid photographs by Anthony Philip Festa, www.anthonyphilipfesta.com.

Burberry Prorsum: I'm Shopping As Fast As I Can

2010-06-20T21:40:00.020-04:00

It's official: the fashion industry is jumping the shark by letting fashion junkies pre-order men's clothes and accessories that literally just came down the runway. Balmain did it last season–this time, it's Burberry Prorsum (ostensibly for Spring/Summer 2011). So you can buy a sharp cotton trench, a chic studded shoulder bag or a slim navy military coat now, and receive your order well before anyone else sees these products in stores. But it does beg the question–what's next? Perhaps brands will preview their runway shows, so editors, store buyers and other savvy customers can sit in the audience already dressed in the same clothes being shown on the models. By which point, the hamster wheel of fashion will be turning so fast it may all just become a blur.

Polaroid Echoes and Perfect Perfume Memories

2010-06-14T20:15:00.113-04:00

Ben Gorham, the creator behind Stockholm-based Byredo, is a compellingly contemporary young man. He's tall, dark and handsome, but also heavily tattooed; his father is Swedish, his mother, Indian, so he grew up around the world; and he's a guy's guy who played professional basketball but then turned from that to dive into perfumery. FA2L was also happy to discover he's a smart conversationalist who enjoys discussing anything except his fragrances, which he generally prefers be allowed to speak for themselves.

Gorham's most recent creation is La Tulipe, which smells exactly like its namesake. There are notes of freesia and vetiver (providing a tenacious base), but the clarion call at the perfume's heart is as sharp, green and pretty as a bowl full of bright Dutch stems. This is no small feat: few, if any, fragrances are based on tulips. Not everyone will love it (soliflores, built around a single flower, are notoriously difficult to wear) but those who do will fall hard. Which is precisely what makes perfume so compelling: like Anthony Philip Festa's polaroid, it resonates in the memory, plays tricks with time and hints at moments, however fleeting, when you felt beautiful, witty or blissfully happy.

Photograph by Anthony Philip Festa.

Two Fashionable Heads Are Better Than One

2010-06-08T23:56:00.070-04:00

Fashion–or, in this case, the fashion industry–is like a Russian matryoshka, one of those funny wooden dolls that opens to reveal another...and another...and so on. On one level, designers go about their jobs thinking up new temptations for wary shoppers; on another, deeper level, the industry reacts to trends having more to do with business models than skirt lengths.

For years now, the business side of fashion has been obsessed with collaboration, bringing two or more talents together in the hope they'll create something special. Think of it as fashion physics: one star plus another should produce a big bang. Sometimes it works (Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme), sometimes it doesn't (Isabel Toledo for Anne Klein) and sometimes, as with Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, the result is so much greater than the sum of its parts it becomes a fashion supernova. Very rare, of course, and usually unstable, but hot, hot, hot while it lasts.

FA2L's collaboration du jour isn't as hot as Karl's: in fact, it's much cooler. Tretorn, maker of Prepdom's favorite tennis shoes, let Comme des Garçons tweak its basic sneaker. We love the odd juxtaposition of labels, and the simple, understated shoes such subversive teamwork produced. Buy them now at Odin, NYC, and walk the fine line between The Preppy Handbook and Japanese fashion's avant-garde.

The Bikini–So Much Fashion and So Little Fabric

2010-05-29T00:06:00.043-04:00

Perhaps you've noticed: FA2L is slightly obsessed with life at the beach. The combination of sun, sea and sand takes us back to Eden, hints at the deep mysteries of life's origins, feels as nourishing as the womb and injects a straight-to-the-bloodstream rush of sensual pleasure. (Plus, despite knowing better, we're suckers for a real tan.)

We also love swimsuits, and not just because we love the beach. The best swimwear is fashion distilled, and requires much more than cosmetic design–it needs to be engineered. Beautiful ball gowns may be odes to technique, but their folds usually hide endoskeletons (either built-in, or created with foundation garments) providing substance. Only a few couturiers–such as Vionnet, Chanel, Balenciaga and Karl Lagerfeld (depending on his mood)–have celebrated the ancient idea of letting a garment find shape on the naked female body. But that's precisely what swimwear designers accomplish.

Innovative fabrics are a starting point, but then the hard work really begins. Curves must be celebrated, yet supported; a balance has to be struck between modesty and daring; and most women, even supermodels, want to highlight assets and camouflage defects (real or imagined). All to be managed with a few scraps of material small enough to squash in one hand.

Some people balk at the high prices of well-made swimsuits–like those by Eres, above, shown to advantage on extraordinary Lara Stone–but they're usually worth the investment. Of course, like anything else you wear they require care: sunlight, salt water, lotion and chlorine take their toll. To extend a suit's life, take it into the shower with you and rinse it in a steady stream of cool water. Then hang it up or spread it out on a clean towel to dry (but keep it out of the sun, and away from heaters). Welcome to summer!

Dads, Grads and Little Lads: IWC's Perfect Timing

2010-05-15T16:40:00.033-04:00

Father's Day is a rare occasion when dads receive presents–but wise parents may want to supplement the day's typical offerings (handmade picture frames, odd ties) with this father-and-son set of Pilot's watches by IWC. Version père is housed in a 46mm platinum case; the 39mm version fils is stainless steel. Both are automatic (of course), mounted on alligator straps and chock-a-block with excellent horological details. Your son will be thrilled to wear the same watch as his dad. FA2L suspects you'll feel pretty good, too.

Instant Glamour: Robert Marc's Summer Shades

2010-05-07T00:52:00.041-04:00

There's a lot of extreme fashion around lately (which makes us very happy) but on sultry summer days nothing is better than the uncomplicated chic of white jeans, flat sandals, a simple top and classic sunglasses. Jackie Onassis famously worked this look for decades and the world never tired of it. Robert Marc knows as much, and designs his eponymous eyewear for a woman like that: glamorous, but quietly so, and as likely to be seen driving her kids to the beach in Southampton as to be glimpsed strolling through Portofino or Saint-Tropez. She speaks fashion so fluently, her appearance might even transform a small-town sidewalk into the Bahamas' Harbour Island (for which this collection is named). Well, maybe.

Days of Heaven: The Digital Era's New Bronze Age

2010-05-04T01:27:00.045-04:00

The beginning of summer doesn't normally make one yearn for stick pins, but these beautiful, handmade examples by Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons (from Derrick Cruz's Fall '10 collection for Bblessing, New York) should be ordered now, before they hit stores in July and are snapped up by boys and girls looking ahead to autumn's heavy cashmere wraps and tweed jackets. They'll be available in bronze (a durable copper-and-tin alloy) or silver; sold individually or as a set; and they represent astrological signs for, from left, Saturn, the Moon, Mars, the Sun, Mercury, Venus and Jupiter. We like that they look both ancient and contemporary, like 21st-century amulets with the power to attract luck and ward off evil spirits. So–what's your sign?

Gianvito Rossi: One, Two, Lace Up My Shoe...

2010-04-30T01:12:00.050-04:00

We love a shoe like this, based on simple, even elegant lines but loaded with sexy details. Gianvito Rossi took an old-fashioned suede ankle boot, went at it with a buzz saw and presto!–Edwardian England, by way of Milan's runways. All the current trends are addressed, including a bulkier proportion for the foot (sans platform, which is a relief), laces and grommets, and safari or military influences (call it campaign chic). The only thing missing is a warning label about hidden maintenance costs: those cut-outs frame toes and heels, making regular pedicures de rigueur. Perfection has its price.

With Tie-Ups Belts You're a Rubber Band Man

2010-04-14T23:14:00.037-04:00

Let's make one thing perfectly clear: nothing can replace a well-made leather belt sporting handsome brass hardware. That said, there's still room in the wardrobe for clever surprises and even fun packaging, especially as days get warmer and words like beach and swimming pool sound viable again. A friend spotted these oddly-named Tie-Ups belts in Florence several months ago. They come in dozens of colors, two widths, one trim-it-yourself length, and are waterproof, recyclable and (being made entirely of rubber and plastic) ideal for wearing through airport metal detectors. They're sold all over Europe and Asia (the website lists plenty of stores); and at a few US retailers, including Diztrict, New York. So you're just a FedEx shipment away from jumping into fountains with impunity.

Malcolm McLaren's Legacy: From Punk to Posh

2010-04-11T23:54:00.081-04:00

When Malcolm McLaren died of cancer on April 8, the world lost a force of nature: an impresario-cum-ringmaster, addicted to shocking with impropriety, who squashed the face of 1970s upper-class Britain against its drawing room windows to see the dismal view. Along with his partner, Vivienne Westwood, McLaren ran a shop in King's Road (called Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die, but renamed Sex) catering to rebellious youth. His greatest claim to fame, however, was managing the Sex Pistols, and acting as foster father to British punk rock.

In 1976 (while the Ramones were churning out brilliant noise in Queens, New York) the Pistols' first single, "Anarchy in the UK," made headlines, thanks partly to Jamie Reid's poster of a shredded Union Jack held together with safety pins and clamped-on, torn-paper type. It was seen as rebellious–almost evil–at the time, but just as The Clash followed hard on the heels of the Sex Pistols (diffusing punk's focus on class warfare by opening it up to other cultural, and musical, influences) and New Wave followed punk, so too the safety pins of the Sex Pistols were copied in couture by the likes of Zandra Rhodes and Gianni Versace. Now, more than 30 years later, the initial shock has long since worn off, but the iconography remains.

In a funny way, it's come full circle, which is why we like this python clutch by Lulu Guinness. Punk imagery has ebbed in and out of fashion over the years (it even rated a sidebar, 'THE PUNK-PREP CONNECTION,' in 1980's Official Preppy Handbook) but by this point raises no eyebrows. The solution? Dress it up: take a large measure of Continental chic, add a dash of British wit and finesse carefully until it's very posh. Then, with tongue firmly in cheek, carry it back into to the drawing room. You may well start a revolution of your own.

Big-Game and Moustache Suggest You Hang It Up

2010-04-08T00:58:00.028-04:00

Next week, Milan's famous fashion brands will find themselves temporarily nudged out of the spotlight by a different designer crowd, as the world's biggest names in furniture design descend en masse for the Salone del Mobile. Of course, this being the age of Twitter, Facebook and other instagratification tools (did we just coin a phrase?), reports have begun to filter back before the show's official opening on April 14. FA2L loves these Micro clothing hooks (that's "microphone" in French) by Big-Game for Moustache. They hold hangers, of course, but it seems even easier to drape coats and bags over the padded heads. We hope they'll come in lots of colors, too, so entry halls everywhere can suggest rainbow gatherings.

A Call to Action: Keith Haring's Art Comes Back

2010-04-04T15:52:00.096-04:00

Almost anyone who lived in New York City in the 1980s felt engaged by Keith Haring's art in a way that 15th-century Florentines or 19th-century Parisians must have felt about the work of their local sculptors and painters: Haring's bold chalk drawings (sometimes tribal-looking, sometimes Dubuffet-like), often rendered on black panels in subway stations, were so common and distinctive they seemed as much a part of the landscape as the Chrysler Building. Like Andy Warhol before him, Haring used charm, wit and faux naiveté to address society's ills–crime, homelessness, corporate greed and, of course, the fear, prejudice and heartbreak caused by rising tides of HIV infections. Unlike Warhol, however, Haring usually favored heat-seeking, active optimism over cynicism's cool detachment.

Haring died in 1990, but his legacy is still with us–and as the 80s revival rolls on (set against a fresh hell of bewildering social problems), designers are looking back to his work for everything from its nostalgic value to its strong message (which we still want and need to hear, perhaps more than ever). The Keith Haring Foundation recently gave Zara and Tommy Hilfiger permission to use Haring's drawings on tees and sneakers: the former are sold in Zara stores (but not online), while the Hilfiger shoes are available at Colette, Paris, before launching globally in September. We're fans of both, and think Haring would be, too: he'd certainly love the shoes...

Photograph of Keith Haring and Bill T. Jones (1983) © Tseng Kwong Chi

The Smell of Spring: Blowing Bubbles on the Lawn

2010-03-29T02:25:00.054-04:00

With Spring finally here, and Easter just around the corner, FA2L suggests setting aside the schoolbooks and having a little fun. Les Bulles d'Agathe (Agatha's Bubbles), from the otherwise rather serious Maison Francis Kurkdjian, hold plastic wands and sophisticated soap bubble solutions that smell like mint, pears or freshly-cut grass. Order them from Paris, if you wish, or find them at stores like Bergdorf Goodman. Then slip some into Easter baskets or use them as favors at wedding rehearsals, baby showers and birthday parties. You may even want to share a few with your kids...

Izat a Font In Yr Pocket or R U Just Prada 2 C Me?

2010-03-27T14:20:00.029-04:00

Ordinary children, dressed in garments with no pedigree, sit in old-fashioned classrooms and struggle with their ABCs. Fashion's bright-and-shiny progeny, however, sport pint-sized designer outfits and strike photogenic poses as they learn their Pradalphabet. We're not kidding. Prada, in conjunction with French design firm M/M (PARIS), is offering limited-edition t-shirts bearing either the phrase PRADA/M or (by special order) individual letters, all written in the ornamental script shown above. And, yes, it's called the Pradalphabet. Apparently, the devil no longer merely wears Prada–now he writes it, too.

Tell Me About It, Stud: The Return of Heavy Metal

2010-03-22T14:52:00.042-04:00

The 80s revival traveled a long runway before taking off, but now it's airborne and wasting no time transporting studs, grommets and other metal hardware back into fashion. Like all powerful trends, this one jumped from season to season (and back and forth between men's and women's runways), sprouting new heads like a beast from Greek mythology: in the last six months alone, Hedi Slimane and Nichola Formichetti draped boys in hyper-studded leather jackets (for Vogue Hommes, Japan); designers as different as Naeem Khan and Burberry's Christopher Bailey showed metal-studded collections; and Lady Gaga danced through her latest video, Telephone, wearing little more than a studded jacket, bra and panties.

These were great fashion statements, but some (Lady Gaga's ensemble, in particular) worked better as costumes than they would in real life. The items shown above offer more realistic ways to add some metallic clout to your day-to-day wardrobe: Alex and Chloe's pyramid-studded double ring, in coated brass; Bottega Veneta's gorgeous (and, believe it or not, relatively affordable) men's bag with laced grommets; and customized sneakers by Gienchi Gap (contact through Facebook)–the pair shown belongs to Kate Loves Me creator, Pelayo Diaz. FA2L loves items like these: distinctive, well-made and, paradoxically, both of-the-moment and timeless. Further proof that when the going gets tough, the tough just turn it into fashion.

Great Spring '10 Accessories Are Shirting the Issue

2010-03-16T18:02:00.116-04:00

Women love to borrow men's clothes, especially great cotton shirts. There are two reasons, really: women associate garments with the guys who wear them, and they appreciate fine material. No argument here: at FA2L, we recognize the talismanic power of clothing, plus we're mad for traditional shirt fabrics. The names alone are exciting–chambray, madras, oxford cloth, poplin, batiste–and the glory of a well-made cotton button-down, produced by a first-class haberdasher (Charvet, perhaps, or Thom Browne's Black Fleece collection for Brooks Bros) is something beautiful to behold. Best of all, these fabrics, and shirts made from them, usually get better with time. They launder well, soften beautifully and gradually take on an owner's personality.

Women's fashion designers are obviously catching on: many Spring collections were inspired by, or made from, typical menswear fabrics (see Dries Van Noten or Céline). Two slightly more fanciful discoveries are shown above–Otis Batterbee's tattersall eye mask, with a velvet back and soft velvet straps to keep it in place (no more annoying, hair-pulling elastic bands); and Omelle's Jaewon sandal, which cleverly references a man's entire warm-weather wardrobe (including hints of a seersucker jacket, a small-brimmed hat, even old-fashioned spats). These shoes are so special, all they need is a breezy shirt (steal your boyfriend's) and some chic, tailored shorts–or, if you're not that brave, a pair of slim jeans. Slip them on and step into summer.

180g is the Parisian Way to Paint By Numbers

2010-03-14T15:28:00.044-04:00

At the 180g boutique in Paris, in the Marais, all of the clothes and accessories on display–things like Nike sneakers, sleek leather jackets, pretty silk dresses, soft cotton sweaters and eye-catching scarves–can be hand-dyed or hand-painted any color you wish. If the concept seems reminiscent of those deeply-70s, do-it-yourself arts-and-crafts projects (remember leather punches? macrame?) fear not: this stuff isn't made by amateurs–in fact, it's really, really cool. In addition to fashion for men, women and kids, the shop also carries home furnishings (which can be customized) as well as striking original art. And whether you favor Prussian Blue, Moss Green or Bronze Shimmer, 180g has 99+ ways to color your world.

Wonderful Luck of the Irish (Or is it the French?)

2010-03-07T15:30:00.071-05:00

With both St. Patrick's Day and the first day of Spring looming (and assuming everyone needs extra luck around tax time) FA2L reminds readers that not everything chez Hermès costs a king's ransom–this chic little key chain is available online for just $140. As to whether a four-leaf clover (or its handmade leather equivalent) will actually improve your chances of winning at cards, getting ahead at work or being lucky in love, who knows why particular superstitions take hold of our imaginations and never let go? What's certain is that such a talisman, offered as a present, carries built-in wishes for all good things. And that's a charming thought, in more ways than one.

Fairy Tales and Fashion: Waving the Magic Wand

2010-02-28T15:41:00.146-05:00

Cinderella (1950) is a classic example of Disney animation: blissfully charming, maddeningly superficial and profoundly satisfying by turns. Walt, of course, did his best to tidy up the dark corners of old European tales (in one version, collected by the Brothers Grimm, the wicked stepsisters' eyes were pecked out by doves) but despite his best efforts, Cinderella still resonates deeply because it's no mere cartoon–this fairy story is a childhood revenge fantasy to end all revenge fantasies, and as such taps into ancient, primal and very powerful magical thinking.

The other message that comes through loud and clear, casting its spell over generations of little girls (and boys, for that matter) is fashion's extraordinary ability to transform human beings. Hope is the thing with feathers, Emily Dickinson wrote; she could have added hope is the thing with sequins and a new pair of shoes. At the heart of most fashionable purchases is the fluttering thought that this garment, worn this night, could lead to...well, to something better. In Disney's push-all-the-right-buttons retelling of the tale, a wronged girl in rags becomes Grace Kelly in couture (watch the whole clip to see one of cinema's more spectacular fashion moments, when a helix of fairy dust settles in glittering spirals to create Cinderella's shimmering ball gown) and snags a prince. These days, consumers would be perfectly happy if wearing a new outfit led to something practical, like a job offer; meeting true love (let alone a prince) might be too much to fathom. As for fairy godmothers, there simply aren't enough of them to go around.

Baby, It's Cold Outside–Time to Buy a Swimsuit

2010-02-23T23:04:00.156-05:00

It's February, which means fashion's topsy-turvy retailing machine is delivering swimwear to stores. Women usually learn, at an early age, how to shop ahead of season; but for some mysterious reason, most guys do not. This wasn't always the case: in the early 20th century, stylish men (including college-aged boys) visited their tailors punctually and relied on local haberdashers or popular mail-order catalogs for sportswear and accessories. These days, however, the average male is likely to wait until last-minute house party invitations drive him into a department store in late July–at which point the best swimsuits will be gone, replaced by row after row of cashmere topcoats.

Part of learning to speak fashion fluently is becoming aware of this cycle, and exploiting it to advantage. If you're a true fashion junkie who has to have the latest model, hit stores early in the season (and develop relationships with salespeople who will call when coveted items are in their hands). If you care more about price than design, you can get along nicely with brands that specialize in basics. And online shopping offers the full gamut, from pre-ordering just-off-the-runway must-haves to great end-of-season sales.

Of course, buying swimwear is tricky, for obvious reasons: it leaves us mostly unclothed. Finding flattering options drives some guys to despair, especially when confronted with buff models like Ellis, above. FA2L's advice? Extra pounds are less noticeable in something hip-slung: wearing elastic at your natural waist only draws attention to the flabbiness of a spare tire. And while American men typically avoid tight bikinis (usually with good reason), a certain type of square-cut trunk, the Brazilian sunga, shouldn't be ruled out. Kyle King's versions (the first three, above) have full seats and enough fabric to drape, rather than bind, across the hips. (King's online shop will be up and running in March.) If you prefer something less daring, please avoid baggy jams (ubiquitous on American beaches for years) and remember that even out-of-shape men often have surprisingly good legs. Channel your inner lifeguard in Miguel Antoinne's slightly retro shorts, above, which are polite but still sexy. Then watch the mercury rise.

1: Swimsuit by Kyle King. Leather & gold necklace (as bracelet) by H. Stern. 2: Swimsuit by Kyle King. Sandals by Hermès. 3: Swimsuit by Kyle King. Sandals by DSquared. Beach towel by Hermès. 4: Shorts by Miguel Antoinne. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban. Sandals by DSquared. Leather & gold necklace by H. Stern.

Photographs by Michael Stratton. Grooming by Lorenzo Martone/Link NYLA. Ellis McCreadie/Major Models. Styled by Mark Grischke. © Fashion As a 2nd Language.

SATC2 & Sarah Jessica Parker Go For the Gold

2010-02-17T01:08:00.058-05:00

Sarah Jessica Parker's image has been looking down on the Bryant Park tents during New York Fashion Week (from billboards promoting Sex and the City 2, coming in May), but you can't see her eyes because she's wearing enormous, mirrored gold frames, above, by Bernhard Willhelm for MYKITA. Parker's a tiny woman, but she's got a big personality (not to mention loads of style) so she carries these off; however, even on her they suggest, by turns, campy Vegas day-trippers, bug-eyed alien fauna or robotic Blade Runner replicants (which aren't necessarily bad things, just a lot to live up to). Some people will pop these on and look stunning; others will be overwhelmed. Know for sure which group you're in before leaving the store.

Balmain Homme: Shop Now For...Autumn 2010?

2010-02-15T00:06:00.087-05:00

Skinny, fashion-obsessed men the world over are chasing a new status brand: Balmain. After rapidly resuscitating the moribund label's women's business (and landing W's prime December '09 cover with Demi Moore in bronze warrior-princess regalia straight off Balmain's Spring '10 runway), house designer Christophe Decarnin is giving it to the guys. His subversive, almost twisted take on high-end fashion ignores standard notions of luxury and goes for the jugular, combining Hedi Slimane's slim cuts with grungier sensibilities akin to early Marc Jacobs. And it's working: after just three seasons (in a down economy, no less), he's built a rabid following for astronomically-priced motocross jeans and stealthily chic outerwear.

But that's not the only news. Such is the demand for these clothes, and so high are the price tags, Balmain is letting men pre-order items from its Fall '10 collection (even as New York designers are still in the throes of showing next autumn's offerings) through an arrangement with Italy's Luisa Via Roma. Click on the store's name in the foregoing sentence: this entire look, above–quilted bomber with leather shoulders, checked shirt, jeans and boots–can be reserved now, for delivery in late September. Which leaves plenty of time to pay off the $5,000-plus charge you'll encounter on your credit card statement.

When You Care Enough to Send the Most Unusual

2010-02-12T13:36:00.028-05:00

Not everyone wants roses on Valentine's Day: typical fashionistas get more thrills from red-soled shoes than red flowers. For the non-traditional luxury-lover, FA2L suggests this distinctive little zippered coin purse by Lucien Pellat-Finet (who has yet to meet a skull he can't replicate in leather, cashmere or diamonds). Just think of it as a symbol of 'til death do us part.

Carolyn Murphy and Tom Ford: When Stars Align

2010-02-07T21:30:00.198-05:00

There are models, there are supermodels (a term now rendered meaningless, thanks to so much bad television) and then, shining brighter than anything else in the fashion firmament, there are modeling's supernovas, the Goddesses, each one a manifestation of Beauty Incarnate. These are the ravishing creatures whose eyes, lips, curves and charisma incite women to envy, straight men to lust, gay men to rapture and anyone caught in their sights to irrational cravings for all the glittering products they deign (and are paid) to promote.

FA2L isn't coy about this: we love Beauty, ergo we love models. We've also been lucky, over the years, to work and play with many of these remarkable "girls" (an industry term that may be apt for 15-year-old beginners but hardly applies to 28-year-old veterans). Most of them, especially those in the first-name-only club, are tireless professionals who show up on time, exude enthusiasm and are gracious to everyone. A short list of favorites? Gisele Bündchen (Mrs. Tom Brady). Michelle Alves. Heidi Klum. Daria Werbowy (whose card we spotted on an agency wall, years ago, leading to one of her earliest editorial sittings). But perhaps our favorite of favorites is the tawny blond, Carolyn Murphy. And we're thrilled to see her new pitch for Tom Ford Eyewear (with A Single Man's Nicholas Hoult), photographed by Ford himself.

Murphy's remarkable career took her from Florida childhood to glossy editorials and prestigious campaigns for Harry Winston, Tiffany & Co. and Estée Lauder. Her rise wasn't meteoric, but it was inevitable: she's blessed with Grace Kelly's bone structure and built like an elegant bird. Making the leap from modeling's midrange to its upper stratosphere simply required buffing up some natural assets–she got a better haircut (warmed to butter-and-honey blond), honed a stronger body (surfing helped) and polished all that golden skin. Suddenly, she was fashion's It Girl, walking every runway, posing for Steven Meisel and co-starring with Adrien Brody in Barry Levinson's Liberty Heights. Along the way, she married and divorced a surfer, dated a rock star (Incubus frontman, Brandon Boyd) and gave birth to an adorable daughter; she also surprised everyone by gracing a Sports Illustrated swimsuit cover without tarnishing her reputation at oh-so-haute French Vogue. Carolyn, please consider this an early Valentine and know you'll always be our one-and-only. Here at FA2L, we ♥ the Murph!

Dior Men: Head Over Heels For Leather & Laces

2010-02-03T01:24:00.070-05:00

Sometimes fashion sparks love at first sight, but for every coup de foudre there's another suitor you're not quite sure about. Such was the case with FA2L and Kris Van Assche's high-topped, lace-wrapped sneakers (with zippers down the back) for Dior Homme. Men's fashion has a long lead time–this collection went down the runway in Paris last summer–and at first we thought these shoes looked bulky. But six months have passed, which is plenty of time for a change of heart. Now, as the sneakers arrive in stores, light dawns and we find ourselves in the throes of a serious crush. If you feel it too, visit Riccardi or Saks Fifth Avenue: with luck, your next affair will arrive by Valentine's Day.

Gird Your Loins: Fashion Straps on the Armor

2010-01-28T22:52:00.153-05:00

2009 was a turbulent, sometimes terrifying year, whose aftershocks are still reverberating around the world. Now, in the aftermath of the economic meltdown, global conditions resemble a medieval landscape created when companies tossed thousands of hapless workers over fortress walls, raised the drawbridges and left roving bands of fugitives to fight it out amongst themselves.

Fashion folk reacted to this cultural shift in wildly different ways. Some brands panicked. Others hunkered down. More than a few went out of business. At the same time, plenty of savvy young designers took a different tack: they listened to the chatter of international distress signals and turned out clothes and accessories offering protection (or, at the very least, escape) from the harsh new world. Many of these kids share a sort of guild mentality that fuses Project Runway fantasies with cooperative group dynamics ("all for one and one for all" or, perhaps more accurately, "you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours"). And the undisputed Queen Bee of this busy fashion hive is Lady Gaga.

FA2L loves Gaga, but this post isn't really about her, beyond the fact that seeing her recent show at Radio City reminded us about armor, or–as it's called now–metal couture. Over the years, we've toured some of the world's great armor collections and stood in awe before leather-and-bronze breastplates from ancient Greece; head-to-toe steel casements topped with ostrich plumes from 16th-century Spain; and spectacular Samurai get-ups from feudal Japan. We've even met an eccentric Englishman who so firmly believes he's a reincarnated 15th-century cavalry officer, he's collected–or made by hand–all the gear he wore in his past life (and continues to use in this one)!

Of course, when it comes to armor, we're not alone in our fascination: Diana Vreeland was obsessed with the stuff (and famously charmed the Metropolitan Museum of Art's resident expert into allowing a valuable Spanish breastplate, filled to overflowing with frothy, handmade lace, to stand in for Velásquez at the center of her legendary Balenciaga exhibit). And, to bring things up to date, it was exciting to see 21st-century armor in Lady Gaga's video for Bad Romance (center photo, above) and onstage during her current tour.

The chin guard in Bad Romance, and the arm guard and headpiece in the third photo, above, are the work of Spanish designer Manuel Albarran. His intricate designs have been featured in recent editorials and advertising campaigns, often thanks to the keen eye of Nicola Formichetti (who also works with Lady Gaga). FA2L is eager to see some of these items in person, and we'd also like to (gently) suggest Albarran find a way to increase production. If the fashion industry continues to face an uphill battle, its creative legions will need to suit up. And we're not talking about grey flannel or navy pinstripes.

It's Iconic: Gucci Collector, Presented by Christie's

2010-01-20T22:16:00.146-05:00

Fashion, by definition, is fleeting, but style endures–especially if the item in question is built to last. And while FA2L is most interested in the passions motivating creators and collectors, we do pay close attention to anything that influences shoppers and thus determines whether or not money changes hands. Fashion copy is full of code words (euphemisms, really), weighted to tip a consumer's mental scales in favor of buying. So cheap separates become better basics, ugly bridesmaids' dresses are labeled Special Occasion and overpriced-but-underwhelming designer goods are reborn as Investment Dressing.

This silly jargon would be funny if contemporary shoppers weren't so gullible. But as post-Industrial tastes shifted from quality to quantity, whole skill sets were lost, along with any context for choosing beautiful, handmade items over shiny gewgaws with shockingly brief shelf lives. As a result, true investment dressing, meaning a reliable wardrobe of distinctive, well-made clothes and accessories (which, by the way, we heartily endorse) was lost in the mass stampede.

Still, there's always hope. We particularly like Gucci's new arrangement with Christie's auction house, whereby collectors are encouraged to submit photographs of vintage pieces to online costume specialists who will do their best to provide accurate appraisals. Gucci plans to open a museum in Florence in 2011 (its 90th anniversary), so the experts at Christie's are looking for special items the company might want for its permanent collection. Meanwhile, there's a brand-wide focus on house icons, including updated versions of the bamboo-handled handbag and the Jackie shoulder bag (which, for Gucci aficionados, are true investment pieces). In tough economic times, it's that much more important to follow shopping's cardinal rule: you get what you pay for.

Photograph of vintage Gucci handbag courtesy of Gucci Collector: Presented by Christie's.

Trussardi 1911: Will Americans Dare to Wear It?

2010-01-19T00:28:00.104-05:00

For a small Italian firm that began by making gloves, Trussardi 1911 has come a long way; and under the current creative leadership of Milan Vukmirovic the label is evolving even more rapidly as it nears its 100th anniversary. Trouble is, the company's clothes and accessories are so unapologetically decorative they haven't made inroads with American shoppers. It's still a label for fashion insiders, whose quest for rare items provides a thrill that's often lost when brands go global.

But Trussardi is in no immediate danger of ubiquity on this side of the Atlantic, because average Americans don't like to stand out: they find comfort in Beau Brummel's mossy platitude that to attract notice is to be over-dressed. Nonsense. In the 21st century, the phrase "over-dressed" is just Victorian hot air. FA2L knows Kander & Ebb were much closer to the mark when they (or, perhaps more accurately, Liza) suggested that life is a cabaret. In other words, get your act together or prepare to be booed off the stage.

Guardians of Temple Louboutin Have Red Soles

2010-01-16T00:06:00.097-05:00

Before gaining notoriety as author of the first Simpsons episode, cartoonist Mimi Pond produced a slim volume called Shoes Never Lie (Berkley, 1985), the funniest monograph-cum-humor book ever written about footwear and lust. If you're a regular FA2L reader, you've seen it quoted here before. On the subject of red shoes, Pond waxed poetic:

Red shoes are possibly the darkest of all secrets that women keep from men. Though men are frustratingly immune to the lure of most footwear, red shoes are a different matter altogether. They allow you to hold the opposite sex in your sway. At the sight of them, men become befuddled and confused. They stammer and perspire and must pull at their neckties like some poor cartoon character. The funniest part of all is that they think it's your perfume, or your personality.

Christian Louboutin's own fame post-dates Pond's book, but the man knows from red shoes: his signature soles are lacquered a glossy, candied-apple crimson. He's also stretched heels to astonishing new heights, and, in the process, gained thousands of followers who attend each new collection like Delphic pronouncements. It's easy to imagine anthropologists of 2075 writing about Louboutin as the leader of a veritable cult, just as Roger Vivier, Charles Jourdan and Manolo Blahnik were before him. Meanwhile, some clever fashion student will probably find a way to combine vertiginous stilettos, shiny red soles and enough rocket fuel to launch late-21st-century stylistas into orbit.

Lacoste 101: Revisiting a Tried-and-True Classic

2010-01-11T20:43:00.097-05:00

Limited editions have great appeal: spending one's hard-earned money on something only a fast-acting (or lucky) few will possess is much more satisfying than buying mere stuff. Lacoste first produced these aviator-style 101 sunglasses in 1980, and is now celebrating the frame's 30th anniversary by re-issuing 1000 pairs (complete with original temple grips and anti-reflective mineral lenses). They won't last long. Knowing this, FA2L has kept words to a minimum and suggests you get a pair while the getting is good. Ready, set, shop!

Photograph: Karl Simone. Grooming: Yinna Wang. Model: Grayson @ dna models. © Fashion As a 2nd Language & Karl Simone. See more of Simone's work in Scott Barnes' book, About Face. Look in the sidebar at right: scroll down to find the cover.

Devon Scott, A Tailor For Modern Gentlemen

2010-01-05T15:12:00.030-05:00

Traditional menswear manufacturers, left to their own devices, are often rule-bound, stodgy and dull (cardinal sins in the world of fashion). However, even elementary items–suits, shirts, ties–can turn glorious in the hands of the right designer. Make no mistake: tinkering with the basics is tricky business, requiring an appreciation of tailored subtleties leavened with just enough originality to make the old new; and while "updating the classics" may sound like a walk in the park, it's more like running a marathon. Long apprenticeships, followed by years spent building credibility, will exhaust even deep reserves of stamina.

And yet, sometimes–like Athena springing fully formed from Zeus's head–a not-so-traditional menswear collection seems to appear out of nowhere. Such is the case with Devon Scott. This dashing young man from High Point, North Carolina has no formal design training (he moved to Manhattan to pursue acting), but growing up with a stylish grandfather left him obsessed with the finer points of classic tailoring. This served him well as a sales associate at Jeffrey New York (a job he took to pay the bills while pounding the pavement), where he gradually realized he wanted to design clothes rather than merely sell them. His first collection of dress shirts sold out, giving him confidence to take on tailored clothing. He found a small Long Island factory presided over by a third-generation tailor; and although the learning curve was steep, Scott was a quick study. He's also a quintessential gentleman, so even though some of his requests (for details like high armholes, slim lapels and very narrow silhouettes) were met with disbelief, he persevered and eventually won over the factory's resident experts.

Scott's clothes aren't flashy, but they're sharp, smart and beautifully detailed–a burgundy blazer, cut from buttery cashmere, has a softly-draped shawl collar and real mother-of-pearl buttons, and a grey flannel suit, though double-breasted, is so Art Deco-sleek it has no extra bulk. The pièce de résistance is his vested dinner suit, with roped shoulders and a trim waist. It's simply perfect, the sort of wardrobe staple a man appreciates every time he puts it on. As for the designer himself, he's too modest to praise his work: "The clothes," he insists, "should speak for themselves." They do, Devon, in dulcet tones, and FA2L loves what they say. At Jeffrey New York, 212.206.1271.

Photo 1: Wool suit by Devon Scott. Cotton shirt by Gucci. Silk-and-cotton tie by Alexander Olch. Photo 2: Cashmere blazer by Devon Scott. Cotton shirt from the Black Fleece Collection by Brooks Bros. Jeans by Edwin. Alligator shoes by Gucci. Photo 3: Wool 3-piece tuxedo by Devon Scott. Cotton shirt by Costume National Homme. Shoes by Bottega Veneta. Photo 4: Cotton shirt by Devon Scott. Sterling silver cuff links by Robin Rotenier.

Photographs by Michael Stratton. Grooming by Lorenzo Martone at Link NYLA. Michael Whittaker and Michael Elmquist at dna models. Styled by Mark Grischke. © Fashion As a 2nd Language & Michael Stratton.

New York, London, Paris...Moscow? Russian Chic

2010-01-04T19:40:00.000-05:00

Is Russian Vogue destined to be the next French Vogue? It seems to be heading in that direction, with sharp editorials like this, photographed by Alasdair McLellan (featuring FA2L New Fashion Face, Hannah Holman; you'll find her in the sidebar, right). Perhaps the land of Czarist splendor is ready for another close-up. Stay tuned.

The Scent of Norway, By Way of New York City

2009-12-31T17:21:00.000-05:00

Fragrance has a language all its own, with so many personal associations it's a marvel we find ways to describe it at all. Some men loathe heavy scents, others live for amber and musk, and many people–Americans in particular–obsess about smelling soapy and clean. At FA2L, we're always looking for something special and, perhaps, a bit disconcerting. We like colognes that remind us of warm skin (not vanilla-laden crème brûlée), and Kristiansand New York does that. The press kit mentions olfactory building blocks like white lavender, mandarin and clary sage, but we smell a hot sauna, fluffy towels and warm white sheets. Add snow, and you've got Scandinavia in a bottle.

ARAKS Will Dress You Up From the Inside Out

2009-12-29T13:03:00.001-05:00

When shopping for lingerie, women are faced with unfortunate extremes: comfortable-but-dowdy or sex-kitten-silly. A happy medium (underwear that's practical and feminine) often seems to be hanging on a rack somewhere just out of reach. For years, FA2L recommended Cosabella, a favorite of supermodels and fashion editors–and we're still fans–but now there's another option: Araks. It's designed by a woman, Araks Yeramyan, who adds pretty details (shirred seams, silk panels and eyelet trim) to soft cotton bras, hip briefs, camisoles and tap pants. These could be the underpinnings of a brand-new year.

Shu Uemura: Hair Today, Not Gone Tomorrow

2009-12-20T23:25:00.000-05:00

After far too many years of military buzz-cuts and shaved heads, men are literally letting their hair down. The first sign was a sprouting of mustaches and beards on every twenty-something male in New York City's trendier neighborhoods, followed by a parade of young models from around the world brushing bangs out of eyes before turning to gaze at the camera.

One of our favorite groomers, Lorenzo Martone (sent to us by Link NYLA), is a hair stylist extraordinaire with an almost-frightening knowledge of beauty products: call it an occupational hazard. To create effects as varied as the sweeping locks and modified Mohawk of these handsome lads (dna models Michael Elmquist, left, and Michael Whittaker) Martone recommends Fiber Lift Protective Volumizer, Shape Paste Sculpting Putty and Sheer Lacquer Finishing Spray by Shu Uemura. If you hurry, there's time to stock up for holiday fêtes. Assuming, of course, you've already grown out your hair.

Photograph: Michael Stratton. Grooming: Lorenzo Martone. Michael Elmquist and Michael Whittaker: dna models. © Fashion As a 2nd Language & Michael Stratton.

Shimmy On Up: Sara Battaglia's Lunatic Fringe

2009-12-18T14:51:00.000-05:00

Diana Vreeland had strong opinions about most things fashionable, not least the all-important subject of fringe:

How I miss fringe! Where is fringe today? The fringe was there in the twenties–as it was there in the sixties–because of the dancing, the dancing...the music! I've known two great decades in my life, the twenties and the sixties, and I'm always comparing them because of the music. Music is everything, and in those two decades you got something so sharp, so new.... (Diana Vreeland, DV, 1984)

Sara Battaglia picks up where DV left off: her eponymous handbag collection plays with shimmering leather strips, adding excitement and movement to smart pocketbooks and trim totes. They're easy to spot–super-stylish Giovanna Battaglia, above, L'Uomo Vogue's fashion editor (and Sara's sister) is a much-photographed fan–but hard to find (try Luisa Via Roma, in Florence). Perhaps 2010 will usher in a new decade of music, dancing and festive fringe.

Photograph of Giovanna Battaglia by Tommy Ton for Jak & Jil Blog.

Checking It Twice: Something For the Daredevil

2009-12-16T03:47:00.000-05:00

Anyone obsessed with the combined glories of speed and style will appreciate a pair of handmade, limited-edition sunglasses by Dita Eyewear. Frame no. PS-003, above, from the Los Angeles-based company's Lancier collection (inspired by men who race cars, boats and airplanes) serves up serious luxury with a shot of testosterone: quick-release titanium temples, a polished white-gold frame, field-quality lenses. In other words, perfect for maneuvers of all sorts.

Mikimoto's Pearls Have That Age-Old Black Magic

2009-12-10T23:05:00.000-05:00

Just as so many of today's words have their Greek or Latin roots, rare jewels carry echoes of a very ancient language: that basic, primal urge to adorn our bodies. From era to era, around the world, men and women alike have lusted after goods made of silver or gold, gems, ivory, wild animal skins and bird-of-paradise feathers. Some cultures believed these things held magic and used them to ward off marauding tribes or evil threats; others valued the more...shall we say...practical qualities of instant status, powerful clout and sexual allure.

It's the 21st century, but not much has changed: we still wear birthstones, believe copper bracelets relieve pain and carry rabbits' feet or coral branches for luck. (Not to mention our ever-present fascination with status symbols.) Mikimoto's spectacular earrings speak to this part of our psyche. There's a potent glamour to black pearls, which, far from being truly black, range from stormy grey to peacock green, with iridescent violet highlights–like soap bubbles. These particular 13mm stunners grew inside Pinctada margaritifera, black-lipped oysters from the South Seas. Not only do they look like luxurious little Christmas ornaments but, crowned with diamonds and set in white gold, they also suggest pageantry (they're fine enough to hail from royal portraits by Velázquez). They could easily turn any grand entrance into something verging on the operatic. Deck the halls, indeed.

Shopping Suggestion: Something For the Dandy

2009-12-08T19:23:00.000-05:00

We like so many things made by WANT Les Essentials de la Vie and would be thrilled to find this handsome little leather case tucked under the tree or inside a Christmas stocking. It holds two collar pins–one silver-plated, one gold-plated–and is only available through the company's website (click on the name above for the link). Then check back often with FA2L for more gift ideas.

Denim, a Love Story: Where the East Meets West

2009-12-06T21:35:00.000-05:00

Before jeans were fashion, they were work clothes, made of tough cotton selvage denim woven on shuttle looms and dyed with natural indigo. Such pants were extraordinarily durable, and molded to the contours of each wearer's body while gradually softening, creasing and fading. Today, of course, designer denim products run the gamut from crisp stovepipes to torn, "whiskered," even paint-splattered versions (which can cost many hundreds of dollars per pair).

Denim came from Europe, where French and Italian communities made work pants from the stuff centuries ago; but the quintessential blue jean–the Levi's 501–is an American product through and through. That said, Japanese culture, with its keen appreciation of authenticity, has greatly influenced what can only be called denim connoisseurship. Case in point: in the late '80s, a gentleman named Hidehiko Yamane worried so much about vintage denim's scarcity he decided to make his own. He found a 1950s shuttle loom, supervised the weaving of selvage denim and hand-painted Levi's-style arcs on the back pockets of finished pairs. The process was painstaking, but his product resonated with denim aficionados around the world. This was the beginning of EVISU. By the late '90s, though, Yamane's original vision had gained such momentum it was no longer a small company turning out handmade jeans–it was a worldwide brand selling everything from t-shirts to outerwear. Along the way, it lost some of its insider charm and became one more name in a sea of products.

Recently, EVISU went back to its roots: it cleaned up distribution, narrowed its focus and relaunched a tight collection for Spring '10 (some of which is available at Barneys New York now, and at Barneys.com December 14). FA2L isn't overly fond of denim "effects," but a few pairs in the lineup speak fashion loud and clear: a slim, dark jean; a bleached-out, beachy-looking pair; and the SHINGU (above), which takes distressing to an artful level. Any would make worthy additions to denim collections everywhere, so get them while you can.

Can One Ever Choose Where the Heart Leads Us?

2009-11-20T01:51:00.000-05:00

We really like Proenza Schouler's portfolio, clutch, or whatever-you-call-it, but we're not sure why. Perhaps because it's not girly (swashbuckling men could carry it) or because it suggests vintage Americana, like something slung on the back of a Pony Express courier. Some details are excessive–all those grommets and straps–yet the overall effect is pleasing: it looks distinctive, useful and likely to improve with age. This bag may even last long enough to pass from one generation to another. So who are we to question love?

Chairs For Tailors and the People Who Love Them

2009-11-15T16:49:00.000-05:00

Hans Wegner (1914-2007) was one of the great Danes of mid-20th-century design, a clear-eyed Scandinavian cabinetmaker who reduced furniture to its basic, most comfortable elements. He was rigorous, but playful, too: his Valet chair (1953), wittily capitalizes on the tendency people have to drape jackets over chair backs. And it doesn't stop there–the seat folds forward on hidden hinges, creating an upright trouser bar, and reveals a secret compartment for stashing cuff links, clothing brushes and other wardrobe necessities.

PP Møbler of Copenhagen (with whom Wegner often partnered) still makes the Valet chair, and original versions are available through vintage dealers or auctions. Whatever the source, it's a handsome addition to the dressing room of anyone who appreciates tailored clothing. FA2L particularly likes the piece's message of solidarity: with so much emphasis on its elegant, hanger-like back, Wegner's chair suggests that tailors, like cabinetmakers, offer skills and products worth preserving. Sometimes, even the furniture speaks fluent fashion.

A Little Bit of Scotland Plus a Lot of French Flair

2009-11-09T16:46:00.000-05:00

The French house of Hermès is famous for its printed silk scarves and ties, but the company's menswear designer, Véronique Nichanian, also creates unusual accessories such as ties made of leather, cotton-and-silk or marvelously-textured wool tweed. FA2L loves this go-to-hell version of a Scottish plaid, complete with fringed edges and bright colors. It's the perfect bit of dash for any stylish man: traditional enough, but not so much that he'll want to play the bagpipes; and very, very chic. It's hanging in Hermès stores now (at a reasonable price, considering the tags on adjacent items) so snap one up while you can. And remember how nice those orange boxes look next to birthday cakes, peeking out of Christmas stockings or piled up under the tree.

BUY Louis Vuitton's Big Cashmere-and-Silk Scarf

2009-11-04T01:24:00.000-05:00

Why? Because choosing one smart accessory allows you to tap into the current '80s revival (in this case, LV's punchy leopard print with Stephen Sprouse's distinctive rendering of the house name) without investing in another handbag. This stole will look great all winter, be useful next spring, and, if cared for, provide years of service on long plane trips or cool evenings near the shore. As an added bonus, you can take advantage of its size (4½ x 6½ feet) by tossing it over the back of a sofa whenever you're not wearing it. That's versatile!

Ladurée Celebrates the Holidays & La Dolce Vita

2009-10-26T23:30:00.000-04:00

Yes, Christian Louboutin partnered with Ladurée earlier this Fall (resulting in some of the most gorgeous pastry packaging ever seen) but now it's Marni's turn. These sweet treats, shimmering in coats of edible gold leaf, will be available in early December at any Ladurée store. Please bring back enough to share...

Hamilton's 1883: Unstuffing the Stuffed Shirt

2009-10-23T01:37:00.001-04:00

This happens to be a great moment for menswear. FA2L is thrilled, of course, but also curious: why such an explosion of talent at this particular time? Cultural anthropologists would likely point to cross-pollinating effects of globalization (and they're probably right), but we suspect something more visceral is also at work: Recent generations of designers, having grown up in the shadow of a greedy, overbearing corporate culture, are literally starving for self-expression.

The result is options, and plenty of them, from aggressive, futuristic tailoring (think Alexander McQueen or Raf Simons) to frankly nostalgic reworkings of beloved classics. Many traditional brands tap into this youthful energy by hiring young designers and setting them loose in the archives, with varying degrees of success. Sometimes, true love ensues (Thom Browne's quirky Black Fleece collection for Brooks Bros is obviously born from a match made in heaven) but such pairings work best when they strengthen a label's DNA. And fashion, like any human endeavor, has its own bloodlines and family trees.

Hamilton Shirts isn't as old as Brooks Bros, but it does boast an impressive pedigree. This Houston-based custom shirt maker was founded in 1883 and is now owned by fourth-generation siblings David and Kelly Hamilton. Together, they've plumbed the company's past and launched a ready-to-wear collection, 1883, combining vintage details, beautiful fabrics and decidedly unstuffy styling. There are distinctive Texan touches, including tissue-thin cotton utility shirts with button tabs (for rolled-up sleeves), trim madras button-downs and a range of lightweight popovers, like the linen version shown here. And since everything's designed for Houston's brutal heat, Hamilton's 1883 shirts can help men keep their cool just about anywhere in the world.

HOORSENBUHS Makes Me Feel... (Mighty Real)

2009-10-14T23:55:00.000-04:00

The clothing and accessories we wear should feel as good as they look–that's half the pleasure of owning beautiful things. It's also a quality that can't be copied by average manufacturers, because most mass-produced goods are tethered to the lowest common denominator.

Designer Robert Keith shares Oscar Wilde's simple tastes: he's always content with the best. His unisex jewelry collection, HOORSENBUHS (named for a 17th-century Dutch trading ship), uses noble materials like 18k-gold, diamonds (both black and colorless) and soft, but rugged, leather. Everything's sculpted, shaped and assembled in Los Angeles, and the pieces are so finely finished they look newborn, not made: they have an air of inevitability that hallmarks good design. And when Keith drops a ring in the palm of your hand, you're a goner–its weight stirs an awareness of gravity and reconnects you to the earth.

The item we truly covet, however, is a leather strap with gold O rings. Keith makes several versions (the one above has a sprinkling of diamonds), but our favorite is the simplest. Wrapped and tightened around our wrist, it looked vaguely tribal and terribly chic. Best of all, it felt protective, like a contemporary talisman. Or, more accurately, like armor for a 21st-century fashion warrior.

Shake Your Bootie: Puma & Sergio Rossi Step Out

2009-10-12T03:34:00.000-04:00

Sometimes, FA2L champions things that, admittedly, aren't long-term wardrobe investments the way custom-made loafers or haute couture gowns usually are. And that's fine. After all, a closet stocked with nothing but "investment" clothing is like a banquet without delicacies: no Champagne, no foie gras, no truffles and (heaven forbid) no dessert. Dull, dull, dull.

These high-heeled booties come from a collaboration between woefully under-appreciated Sergio Rossi and world-famous Puma. They're built on rubber soles with a sneaker's tread and rounded toes (not to mention all that lacing), but tower like supermodels on sexy 4" heels. Are they comfortable? Perhaps. Are they '80s throwbacks? Yes, in a good way. Will you keep them forever? Probably not. But FA2L suspects you'll have lots of fun in them while the party lasts.

Beth Terry's World of Tea & Olfactory Sympathy

2009-10-07T10:35:00.000-04:00

She's just 5'7" in Azzedine Alaïa heels, but Beth Terry is huge in Japan. She's also celebrated by secret consumer societies (i.e., fragrance fanatics) around the world. The core of her business–a scent known as Té, combining smoky green tea, spicy cardamon and fresh celery–was launched in 1995, making it almost 15 years old. Yet it's likely the average shopper has never heard of her.

Terry's approach to perfume is deeply personal. She left a career in fashion because her acute, almost "burdensome" sense of smell, plus persistent childhood memories of drinking tea with her grandfather, literally compelled her to start a fragrance company. This passion sometimes crested the novice perfumer slightly ahead of the curve, from creating the scent (a tea-based fragrance seemed radical; Jean-Claude Ellena's Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert débuted in '93 but hadn't yet found its audience) to anticipating luxury's stealthier side with simple bottles and minimalist packaging. Fortunately, Terry had influential early champions, including Kate Betts (then Vogue's fashion news director), the Pressman family at Barneys, and buyers chez super-cool Paris boutique, Colette. Té was followed by Mare, a breezy, day-at-the-beach combination of sea salt, avocado and ginger lily, and Terry's aptly-named company, Creative Universe, expanded rapidly.

For all her success, however, Terry maintains the cachet and integrity of a niche brand, albeit with global appeal. The reference to Japan is no joke: she has a worldwide following, including die-hards seeking rare bottles of discontinued scents (even Té, once encountered, creates a strong urge to re-experience its heady combination of deeply satisfying and slightly disturbing elements). Of course, the fragrance landscape has changed since Terry forged her way across it; there are many niche brands but fewer original ideas, so fans are eager to see what this savvy woman unveils next. FA2L suspects they won't have long to wait.

www.luckyscent.com
Photograph by Ron Reeves, www.ronreeves.com

It's October: Yet Another Excuse For New Shoes

2009-10-01T17:40:00.000-04:00

This killer pump is by young British designer, Chrissie Morris, who takes inspiration from Art Deco's romantic geometry but pushes it to extremes. Specialties include towering heels (which she sculpts herself), retro-futuristic styling (with nods to Salvatore Ferragamo, Roger Vivier and Blade Runner) and exotic or metallic leathers. Marlene, above, has a stunning, cantilevered profile, hidden platform and stingray inserts. Guaranteed, as the name suggests, to turn any girl into a lightning rod for the right sort of trouble.

The Unbearable Lightness of Being Gary Cooper

2009-09-30T00:50:00.000-04:00

For slightly more than a decade–from the late '20s until the late '30s–screen actor Gary Cooper was the handsomest man in the world. He simply had no peer. At 6'3" he towered over leading ladies, many of whom used his height to their advantage: leaning into him, they could rest beautiful faces against his chest and appear sexy and sweet at the same time. Atop this well-built frame was a face with heroic bone structure that looked boyish, rugged or Art Deco sleek by turns. It probably stopped women in their tracks in Helena, Montana (Cooper's hometown) but, more importantly, it was a face made for the lights, cameras and action of what were then called moving pictures.

Cooper wasn't a particularly good actor, but he wasn't bad, either: he had a natural grace that cut through some of the nonsense other actors tried onscreen. He also looked great in clothes, which is why FA2L holds him so dear. He seemed to enjoy dressing well and understood what flattered him, yet he was less concerned about his appearance than other Hollywood celebrities (such as the famously fussy Cary Grant). For example, in Steichen's 1930 portrait above, Cooper's collar points are slightly askew; his stance is natural, not overly composed; and his white handkerchief seems jammed in his pocket rather than artfully displayed. But for all that, he looks completely devastating.

Cooper played opposite many of the era's great beauties–Greta Garbo, Tallulah Bankhead, Carole Lombard (and was famously involved with Clara Bow, Grace Kelly and Patricia Neal, among others)–but he sparked particularly well with Paramount's biggest star: Marlene Dietrich. In 1930's Morocco, during an audacious scene as a cabaret performer, Dietrich kisses a woman on the mouth and tosses a rose to Cooper's dashing Legionnaire. A torrid romance develops, culminating in an operatic ending which will not be divulged here. The two worked together again (and either began or continued an affair) in 1936's Desire, which has Dietrich's Parisian jewel thief meeting Cooper's automobile engineer on the road to Spain. Glamour, intrigue and love in the glittering moonlight ensue.

Sadly, Cooper did not age well: as poor health shadowed his face, he lost the bright-eyed, almost goofy charm that characterized many early performances. His reflexes slowed, his choice of parts became conservative, and he played cowboys, ballplayers and businessmen with the same bland folksiness (although plenty would disagree, as he remained a well-loved figure until his death in 1961, at age 60: Marlene Dietrich looks grief-stricken in the photo taken at his funeral). Ultimately, debating the relative merits of such an extraordinary career is beside the point, because "Coop" made millions of movie-goers happy during his lifetime and left behind some of the most glorious images of a man, and his clothes, ever seen on the screen. When the modern world hurts our eyes, it's comforting to slip into an art-house presentation of vintage '30s pictures, settle in with some Red Vines and bask in the moonlight that still glimmers in Gary Cooper's shining hair.

Photograph, top, by Edward Steichen, 1930; photographs, center, Paramount Pictures, 1930, 1933; and photograph, bottom, by Barry Feinstein, 1961, for Hollywood Foto-Rhetoric by Bob Dylan.

Women On the Verge of a Technical Breakthrough

2009-09-28T14:00:00.000-04:00

When it comes to women's coats, far too many designers fail to balance form and function. Some produce things that are beautiful, but flimsy and useless; others make clothes that may very well be warm, but are also ugly and bulky. Fortunately, companies like Loro Piana understand the art of compromise. Thanks to their innovative work with leather and textiles–plus a team of thoughtful designers–half the world's population doesn't have to choose between looking like tweedy marshmallows or elegantly freezing to death.

This Eiger jacket is a good example. It's made of sleek, water-resistant leather (with suede details); lined in cashmere-wool flannel (with knit cashmere at the neck and cuffs); and boasts strategically-placed pockets of lightweight down for perfect insulation. Just as importantly, it's cut to flatter a woman's shape, with small shoulders, a trim, adjustable waist and a softly-draped skirt (the part below its waistline). Admittedly, a Loro Piana coat doesn't make as strong a fashion statement as something from, say, Balenciaga; but its jaunty silhouette would look equally smart on a tall, denim-clad 24-year-old girl dashing around Manhattan or a spry older woman running village errands (and will continue to do so for years to come). The fluffy fox collar detaches, and suggests a trapper hat as an appropriate accessory; add a bright scarf and you're ready to brave the elements. It's almost exciting enough to make one look forward to winter.

Cuff Love: Verdura and Chanel Made Quite a Pair

2009-09-23T00:40:00.000-04:00

The Sicilian duke Fulco di Verdura ran with a fast crowd in the '20s, so it was only a matter of time before he crossed paths with Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel–a real dynamo whose meteoric rise as a couturière, businesswoman and social climber knew no limit. Chanel originally hired Verdura to design textiles, but she quickly recognized his talent for jewelry and initiated a collaborative partnership that produced some of the most memorable baubles of the 20th century.

Although Verdura's ambition ultimately propelled him to New York and Hollywood, he's probably best remembered for the Maltese cross cuffs he first made Chanel. (She wore them for decades.) They were further popularized by Diana Vreeland, who was so partial to various Verdura pieces one wonders if she ever took them off. Whether gossiping with Halston at Studio 54 or terrorizing underlings at the Costume Institute, she was often photographed wearing the duke's jewelry like fashionable versions of military decorations.

In 2007, the house of Verdura (overseen by CEO Ward Landrigan and his son and president, Nico) acquired Chanel's original cuffs; this year, they took advantage of the company's 70th anniversary to offer limited-edition reissues made of enameled gold set with sapphires, rubies and emeralds. They're not inexpensive, but their beauty and iconic status make them signature items any chic, no-nonsense woman would reach for every day. Average the cost-per-wear over a lifetime, and they're practically free. You do the math.

Photographs courtesy of Verdura; portrait of Chanel by Man Ray, 1935

"Be Vewy, Vewy Quiet, We're Hunting Wabbits"

2009-09-17T01:38:00.000-04:00

Every model, publicist, designer and retailer knows there's nothing warm and fuzzy about the fashion business: it's a blood sport. That's why tough-guy gear is perennially popular. Denim, of course, has become the default setting for every man, woman and child, but a dash of military surplus or classic work clothing also projects enough irony to offset expensive watches and extraordinary shoes.

Canadian twins Dan and Dean Caten, designers of DSquared, do a lot to popularize a rugged, outdoorsy look (all very tongue-in-cheek, of course). They take wool hunting jackets, heavy leather topcoats and plaid shirts, reshape them to make them sexier (and more fashionable), and unleash perfect storms of male archetypes: lumberjacks, ski bums, and Canadian Mounties galore. Paul Bunyan, meet Tom of Finland.

The hat and bag here aren't "fashion," per se, but that's why we like them. The carry-all is L.L. Bean's Maine Inland Fisheries and Wildlife tote (we own it in camo print): you can choose one of four animals embroidered on the side, and part of each sale is donated to conservation efforts. The hat (spotted on a friend in Williamsburg, Brooklyn) is Stormy Kromer Mercantile's waxed cotton cap. Both are giving so much realness they could pass muster in a UP Michigan bar, yet they hum with enough personality to set fashion antennae quivering. Let the hunting and gathering begin.

Space Oddities & Fashion in the 21st Century

2009-09-15T15:27:00.000-04:00

Kudos to British Vogue and Tim Walker for this gorgeous October editorial. Cyberspace is a wonderful place, but FA2L loves print, too...

When the Going Gets Tough, the Tough Don Alaïa

2009-09-12T15:45:00.000-04:00

The threat of a full-bore '80s revival can give one pause, but it also summons visions of powerful women wearing Azzedine Alaïa, one true bright spot–a fashion lodestar, in fact, still radiating brilliance–in an era that now seems light years away. A recent dash through the racks at Bergdorf Goodman saw my beautiful 23-year-old shopping companion literally stopped in her tracks by an Alaïa dress and swoon-inducing shoes. This brought to mind Suzy Gershman's Moscow Rule of Shopping, from Born to Shop. It was written before Russia joined the global marketplace, but the advice is sound:

The Moscow Rule of Shopping is one of my most basic shopping rules. Average
shoppers...want to see everything available, then return for the purchase of choice. However, if you live in Russia...you must buy something the minute you see it,
[or] it will be gone. Hence this international law: the Moscow Rule of
Shopping. Buy it when you see it, understanding that you may never see it again.

Alaïa is a notoriously contrary designer: he doesn't court the fashion press, he doesn't advertise (other than dressing some of the world's most beautiful models) and his shipments to retailers are haphazard, at best. Savvy women who stumble across his creations tend to snap them up, knowing they won't have a second chance. These shoes are at Browns, London (online, too). But hurry: She who hesitates is lost.

Benjamin and Doug's Excellent Fashion Adventure

2009-09-10T01:31:00.000-04:00

In stressful times, people reach for the familiar: comfort food, comfort clothes. There's nothing wrong with that, but it does present challenges for fashion designers. If you've ever read a favorite story to a child, you'll understand–make one mistake, skip a page, fail to use the right effects in the right places and you're a goner. And adults can be just as demanding when it comes to remade classics.

That's why the timing is right for talented neo-traditionalists like Ben and Doug Burkman, aka the Burkman Bros, two handsome, amiable siblings from Toronto. They're smart, well-traveled and, like so many Canadians, beautifully-mannered. (Is it taught in schools, or something in the water?) They treat menswear essentials with respect, while managing to freshen things up around the edges; in other words, their designs appeal to guys who fear fashion, but sport enough clever details to attract fashion snobs. Plus, their clothes look, and feel, like they've been part of a man's wardrobe forever.

This deluxe cotton flannel shirt is a good example: It's a standard, but not standard-issue. The outer fabric is plush, and it's lined with glossy, lightweight oxford cloth. There are nice touches everywhere, from the metal locker loop chain to a small inside pocket set below one's rib cage. Buttons are simple and sharp; plaids align at key points; and the fit is trim but not tight. Find it at Kesner, New York; Lark, Vancouver; and Barneys New York stores. End of story.

www.burkmanbros.com

Fashion and Finance 101: Undressed For Success

2009-08-27T01:07:00.000-04:00

Forget the rise and fall of hemlines: Alan Greenspan's theory of "briefonomics" tracks sales of men's undergarments as a leading economic indicator. Typically, these numbers are relatively stable: everyone needs new underwear, right? Only in periods of extreme crisis do they drop, as they did steadily for most of 2008. By extension, increased sales suggest burgeoning consumer confidence.

Well, hold onto your shorts, gentlemen, because WWD reported Monday that underwear sales were up 4.5% for the first half of 2009 (according to NPD Group's market research analysts). And they continue to climb, which could mean America's economic recovery is poised to happen sooner rather than later.

This optimistic news inspired us to shop for skivvies, and Go Softwear's "English-Cut" cotton-and-bamboo boxer brief quickly became a new favorite. The basic shape suggests vintage athletic togs (think Chariots of Fire) but its low rise, slim fit, and snappy, red-striped waistband are very up-to-date. Go ahead: invest some money in yourself and the economy. You'll end up looking good while doing some good.

www.gosoftwear.com

The Bag As Artifact & Symbol of Grace Under Fire

2009-08-21T01:17:00.000-04:00

Ah, the secret world of women's purses, handbags, satchels and the like. I often ask female friends to detail the contents of their bags, and most of them know to the last mint what's socked away in each corner: BlackBerry, makeup kit, wallet, newspaper, magazines (important pages dog-eared or flagged with color-coded tabs), sunglasses, water bottle, flip-flops (or sneakers, in winter), hand sanitizer, SHOUT stain removing wipes, assorted pens, Motrin, and enough sundries to stock a small pharmacy. And that's just for starters–most professions (including motherhood) add to the checklist. An odd, and seemingly contradictory corollary, states that no matter what size a bag may be, it will be filled to capacity. The anthropologist in me can't help but suspect this all goes back to our days as hunters and gatherers.

There is no single, perfect bag, of course, but certain things are key. Handbags are fun for special lunches and afternoon events, and they're killer status items, but as functioning elements in the average woman's wardrobe, they hardly register. Totes seem practical, but they're often very heavy when full (see corollary above), and most won't slip over a shoulder (even Diana, goddess of the hunt, carried a shoulder bag of sorts–a quiver). The best day-to-day bags have adjustable straps so their fit can be personalized; they're neither too small nor too big; and they're tough enough to bear constant stress while looking chic and breezy. Rather like society expects of women themselves.

Gucci's new Icon Bit bag strikes me as a contender. It's of medium size, with smart pleats that expand or contract (and mold around a woman's side when squashed under her arm); it has a practically-perfect shoulder strap with beautiful hardware; and it purrs luxury instead of screaming "look at me." This purple suede is especially pretty; but there are also black or cream calfskin versions and a very glamorous model in shiny black python. The popular press has eulogized the passing of the "status bag," but what comes next? We say, "The Status Bag is dead. Long live the (new) Status Bag."

www.gucci.com

Emma Watson: Bewitched, Bothered & Burberryed

2009-08-18T02:01:00.000-04:00

It's August, and miserably hot in New York, but for fashion followers that means one thing: some of the year's best clothes and accessories are popping up in stores. It also means fall ad campaigns are breaking, and one can only imagine the agonized deliberations behind their creation. Globally, 2009 has been an annus horribilis for luxury goods (brands saw revenues drop anywhere from 10 to 80 percent), leaving companies in a tight spot: having precious little money to spend on advertising at a time when advertising is, in fact, precious.

Burberry's solution was to go in swinging, thanks to the combined talents of a veritable fashion A Team: the company's creative director, Christopher Bailey; ace photographer Mario Testino; and a cast of handsome British lads. They shot in Westminster, on the Thames (giving them home advantage) and, to seal the deal, brought in a last-minute player with serious star power–19-year-old actress Emma Watson, of Harry Potter movie fame.

FA2L is not, in general, a fan of celebrities trying to be models (or vice versa, for that matter). However, Watson is utterly charming in these pictures, and also completely natural: she's as English as clotted cream and prettier than the industry's current cast of interchangeable, poker-faced Russian girls. (As Mark Wahlberg, aka "Marky Mark," said about another Brit, Kate Moss, "Oh, she's got freckles.") Forget the Revolutionary call, "The British are coming," because it's already too late. The British are here, and they're well ahead of the game.

www.burberry.com

An FA2L First Look: Tumi's Got a Brand New Bag

2009-08-12T20:32:00.000-04:00

While everyone's been preoccupied with recession, depression and general economic malaise, Tumi slowly edged its way into the luxury market. Granted, it was never an inexpensive product: it's always been built tough, using good materials. In fact, this editor often relied on two enormous garment bags-on-wheels for fashion shoots (including one produced on an African safari). But ballistic nylon isn't exactly chic.

Several years, ago, however, the company introduced its "Townhouse" collection of handsome trunks, suitcases, and small leather goods. Suddenly, editorial antennae everywhere started to vibrate, and it wasn't long before Tumi jumped onto the shortlist of desirable (as opposed to merely practical) travel gear.

This September, the company is taking another big step. Two unisex pieces–a document envelope and a slim, top-handled portfolio–will be available in French-tanned American alligator. We approve. Ballistic nylon is great for flak jackets, but a sleek briefcase like this says "Master of the Universe" loud and clear.

www.tumi.com

Haute Couture's Own Secret Language of Flowers

2009-08-10T21:09:00.000-04:00

For many people, couture brings to mind a list of grand names stretching back 120 years: Worth, Patou, Chanel, Dior. But a very real part of France's glorious apparel industries has always been her petites mains–the small army of seamstresses, pattern makers, embroiderers and the like, whose artistry creates the stage upon which couturiers dance. Diana Vreeland knew this: within weeks of 1944's Liberation of Paris, she asked French colleagues to send "one perfect black organdie rose." This was a litmus test: Vreeland scrutinized her flower and determined it was as well-made as anything produced before the war. Whereupon she swept from her office into the halls of Harper's Bazaar to bellow her pronouncement: The Couture had survived!

In fact, at that time there were literally hundreds of small, independent French businesses supplying specialized work to the larger couture industry. It's shocking to realize most of them have disappeared, driven to extinction by changing tastes, rising labor costs and shifting priorities. These days, few young people care to own or even learn about something as quaint as a handmade silk flower–and fewer still would choose a career in this now-obscure area of expertise.

Today, there's only one company in Paris making couture-quality flowers: Maison Legeron. In business since 1880, it's still run by the original family (the current manager is a great-grandson of the founder). Most work is done by hand, often with the same equipment used in decades past. Silk is pinned on wooden frames, then dipped in liquid gum, starch or even flour; textured materials, like velvet, feathers or fur are coated with a brush (or left dry). Metal punchers, like big cookie cutters, are used to stamp out different types of flowers, after which the petals are carefully molded and hand-painted. Then they're gathered, massed, twisted and tweaked into shape, and finished with anything from sequins to more natural-looking leaves and stems.

Most of these small works of art are sold to couture houses, but Couture Lab offers a few of Maison Legeron's floral brooches. They're not expensive, but their effect is stunning: even a single large flower, worn at the neck, hip or wrist, transforms a simple dress into something extraordinary. You may not care to invest your money–or time–in custom-made clothing, but these unique flowers streamline the process. Just pick a bouquet, have it delivered and enjoy the haughty thrill of wearing one small piece of French couture.

www.legeron.com
www.couturelab.com

Christian Roth Says 2010 Looks Good From Here

2009-08-06T06:30:00.000-04:00

This year, Christian Roth eyewear celebrates its 25th birthday. Actually, it's more like a silver anniversary–many people don't know that the brand is a partnership between German-born Roth and Frenchman Eric Domège, who met in New York in the early '80s and launched their own firm in 1984. Over the course of two-and-a-half decades, they've designed and produced hundreds of beautiful (and beautifully-made) frames for discerning customers; and a more recent partnership with Japanese manufacturer Charmant has continued to expand their global reach.

This bold pair of sunglasses, "Neo-Geo," winks at the '80s, but its novel layering of curved and angled edges–and light and dark shapes–makes it strikingly new. It's part of Christian Roth's 2010 collection, which starts arriving in stores this month along with other early Fall deliveries. You can find it at Bergdorf Goodman, New York (or call 1.800.558.1855). Buy it now, and spend the rest of the summer looking very next season.

www.christian-roth.com

Beauty's Only Skin Deep but Nerds Help You Shop

2009-07-31T17:27:00.000-04:00

FA2L is in awe of the very simple, very savvy website, Nerd Boyfriend. Using vintage photographs as starting points, the site reduces an icon's sartorial image to its basic components, and links readers to contemporary equivalents. This shot of James Dean playing Ping Pong, for example, will take you to J. Crew's heather poplin utility shirt; Steven Alan's short sleeve shirt; and James Perse's limited-edition Ping Pong table. We give the nerdy boy's communication skills an A+.

www.nerdboyfriend.com

Kesner, New York: A Store–and Refuge–For Men

2009-07-26T18:54:00.000-04:00

Even men who don't like to shop will find bliss at Kesner, in Manhattan's West Village. Its owners, half-brothers Philip Silverman and Matthew Simon, named it after their grandfather, Alfred Kesner–and this nod to the past perfectly illustrates the shop's modus operandi. Kesner offers a sharply-focused, well-edited selection of men's clothing, accessories and grooming products that go beyond classics with the proverbial twist. Novices and dandies alike will appreciate its combination of old-school traditional and new skool contemporary, presented in a handsome, masculine setting. For the truly shy–or truly famous–there's even a plush, upholstered room for private fittings, complete with a well-stocked bar.

Thomas Trube, Kesner's Director of Operations, says that Fall's lineup includes Alexander Olch's sharp ties; jewelry by tenthousandthings; shoes by Schmoove; the debut of Caulfield Prep clothing; as well as pieces from the collections of Burkman Bros., Gossuin, Jean Paul Gaultier and Neil Barrett, among others. We suggest you begin your Fall shopping now (and, if you're out east, that you visit Kesner's new store on Jobs Lane in Southampton). Let the smart salesmen offer suggestions–they want to help you hone a personal style, rather than drown you in uncomfortable clothes. Times are tough, yes, but looking good is still the best revenge.

www.kesner-ny.com

Photographs by Anthony Philip Festa
www.anthonyphilipfesta.com

The Four Hundred (Plus) Bows of Alexis Mabille

2009-07-20T00:04:00.000-04:00

Young French designer Alexis Mabille has strong credentials (he worked at Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior), but this 30-year-old is still an unpredictable talent. His combined men's and women's collections, presented as couture, rather than ready-to-wear, are full of ideas: sometimes, too many of them. But for every awkward moment, there's a corresponding vision of grace, as sleek young men stride down the runway like flashes of color and girls float by on clouds of chiffon.

Mabille also has a thing for bows: he tacks them to jackets, wraps them around necks and cleverly repurposes their shape for soft evening bags. These jewel-toned velvet butterflies are bows of a sort, but not ties: they're brooches, meant to be pinned on a jacket's lapel or perhaps the shoulder of a dress. And while there are probably few men these days with enough panache to wear any accessory made of velvet (let alone a butterfly brooch), we hope to see at least one. It could be just the thing to help a beautifully-tailored suit take flight.

www.alexismabille.com
www.studiohomme.com

In the Nina Ricci Big Top, Theyskens Takes a Fall

2009-07-12T23:55:00.000-04:00

Producing cutting-edge fashion, even in the best of times, is a harrowing high-wire act. Business teams at the world's great luxury houses are expert jugglers, balancing production costs, overhead expenditures and advertising fees against revenue from clothing and accessories; makeup and perfume; and a stream of potential licenses. Meanwhile, designers must have talent enough to create exciting collections, plus the instinct to gauge how great a leap adherents will take each season. Talk about a circus! It's gaudy, backbreaking and glamorous by turns, with elephant pyramids, lion tamers, feathered ponies and spangled showgirls galore. High above the center ring is the house designer, who steps out on a wire season after season, show after show––and sometimes falls right off the tightrope.

That's what happened to Olivier Theyskens at Nina Ricci in March. Theyskens is a Belgian designer who's been hailed as a fashion genius, for his own collections (of which Madonna was an early champion: in 1998, she wore his clothes to the Oscars and VH1's Fashion Awards) and for his work at Rochas and Nina Ricci. FA2L remembers discovering some of Theyskens' first pieces in Paris and marveling that gowns and jackets so shockingly new could have as much presence and audacity as vintage couture. Unfortunately, audacity can be a problem: it whips fashionistas into a frenzy, but the house doesn't make money selling only front row seats. Rumors circulated for months that Theyskens and Nina Ricci would part ways (the brass at parent company Puig apparently sat him down after the Spring '09 show for a "talking to") and the extraordinary Fall '09 collection, unveiled on March 5, left no doubt. It was a thrilling parade of razor-sharp tailoring, glittering modern materials and death-defying platform shoes, but Puig's bean counters decided these dark goddesses were striding too far ahead of the curve. By March 10, Theyskens was out.

Obviously, many of the clothes Theyskens sent down the runway in that last show never went into production. In June, Puig held a fire sale of old stock and current samples--in other words, anything that might suggest Oliver Theyskens had ever worked there. The irony is almost too much to bear--in just a few seasons, Theyskens single-handedly put Nina Ricci back on the fashion map (from which it had been missing for decades). Meanwhile, a few pieces--including the skinny grey jacket and pants in the photo above--are arriving in stores. Check them out for yourself and, if they fit your body, your life and your budget, buy them. Then step out on your own daily tightrope in style.

www.ninaricci.com

Took Your Vitamins? Now Put Them On Your Skin

2009-07-07T21:05:00.001-04:00

In 1927, Dr. Nadia Payot created an institute in central Paris catering to women's health and beauty needs. The original spa still exists, but, over time, Payot has broadened its reach (by opening outposts in Paris and around the world), its scope (through the development of exclusive products) and its approach: it now serves both men and women. Payot Homme's new Optimale line boasts vitamins, minerals and pulverized suspensions of semi-precious stones to "invigorate, rejuvenate and refresh" a man's skin. Our prescription? Use daily. Look and feel better.

(1) Effective Shaving gel (2) Soothing After Shave balm (3) Regenerating Care skin fortifier (4) Refreshing Eye Contour Care (5) Deep Cleansing gel (6) Energizing Care skin revitalizer.

www.payot.com

Stéphane Rolland, Couture & An American in Paris

2009-07-07T03:38:00.000-04:00

His name is not well-known in the United States, but Stéphane Rolland is one of the few remaining couturiers showing Fall/Winter collections this week in Paris. He began his career at Balenciaga, then spent 10 years at Jean-Louis Scherrer before opening his own maison de couture in 2007. Intrepid young American photographer Patrick Armstrong was on hand to document Rolland's presentation in the Palais de la Découverte, including the sound check, the hair-and-makeup marathon, the hurry-up-and-wait that is part of every fashion show, and the final rush to congratulate and interview the designer.

Not every look that came down the runway on Monday was a success, but the collection held plenty of potential. Rolland says he's inspired by architecture, interior decoration and furniture design; occasionally, his clothes remind us of pieces by Pierre Cardin (though they're less rigid), the late Gianfranco Ferré (without that designer's grand gestures) or New York's Ralph Rucci. Rolland added spare punctuation in the form of sleek handbags and clutches. Given time (and feedback from clients) we trust he'll continue to strengthen his vocabulary, find his own voice and make even more distinctive statements.

www.stephanerolland.com
www.patrickarmstrong.com

Karen Bizer Fine Jewelry: An Historical Romance

2009-06-29T00:33:00.000-04:00

You probably haven't heard of Karen Bizer Fine Jewelry, but reading about the company here automatically puts you a few steps ahead of other treasure seekers. Bizer's pieces all seem to share a sense of history: some look like artifacts from ancient Egypt or Byzantium; others suggest plunder from the Forbidden City or the Taj Mahal. This integrity is something that can't be faked--it's not a matter of simply copying a pretty earring in a museum display, but of learning how that earring was made. And it's her devotion to traditional techniques (still practiced by a small community of artisans), combined with a desire to create jewelry that looks and feels right (regardless of cost), that's made Karen Bizer's name as bold as an "X" that marks the spot.

Although she's a fashion industry veteran, this venture is a surprisingly new development (launched very quietly last August). Bizer started her career as an editor at Women's Wear Daily, then owned a PR firm for many years. Becoming a jewelry designer was an idea that crept up on her slowly and took hold gradually. After a first, false start, which essentially taught her how much she had to learn, Bizer decided to go back to school. She chose Manhattan's Jewelry Arts Institute, a unique academy specializing in ancient and Classical techniques. At the Institute, Bizer honed her design skills, learned how to translate ideas into mechanical drawings her goldsmiths and gem cutters could follow, and delved deep into the multi-layered challenge of using chemistry, physics, architecture, and art history to make beautiful things.

For Bizer, the process usually starts when she encounters the right raw materials. She's often inspired by unusual stones, like a 27.3 carat, pinkish-red star ruby she asked her associates to hand carve and set in a gold ring with prongs as bold as flying buttresses. Jadeite's green glow started her thinking about the Art Deco period's love affair with Asia, and morphed into a pair of white-gold earrings strung with white and black diamonds, rubies and carved jade lozenges that would look equally well on a 19th-century Chinese princess, a '20s movie star or a 21st century New Yorker. And, sometimes, the challenge of marrying two or more materials in one piece provides more inspiration than anticipated, as was the case with a shagreen-and-gold cuff, whose constellation of individually-set, multicolored diamonds kept getting larger and larger (and required eight months to perfect).

Bizer welcomes custom requests, and works tirelessly to satisfy a client's passions. She takes each commission to heart, determined to realize its full potential: even when talking about the relaunch of her own company, she says, philosophically, "It's an investment in myself." Then the sleeves are rolled up (metaphorically speaking, at least) and she goes back to work, apparently finding as much joy in the process as her customers do in the results.

www.karenbizerfinejewelry.com

A New(ish) Designer With a World of Experience

2009-06-21T16:46:00.000-04:00

Antonio Azzuolo's New York-based menswear line is very new (Fall '09 is only its 3rd season), but that doesn't mean Azzuolo is a new designer. This Montreal native has worked his way through the great triumvirate of fashion cities, from Milan (his first stop after studying apparel arts and tailoring in Toronto) to Paris (where he designed for Hermès, Kenzo and Galeries Lafayette) and New York (which, most recently, saw him at the helm of Ralph Lauren's Purple Label and Black Label collections). With so much experience under his belt, it's no wonder his own label already seems fully formed--there's none of the dithering that sometimes plagues other "new" designers.

As Azzuolo himself explains, "Inspiration is like a pyramid. The base is broad and fundamental, like one's past. As you move up to the point, there are flashes of things one sees, seasonal influences." For Fall '09, the designer brought together two opposing forces: a sexy, roped-shouldered silhouette reminiscent of mid-'60s Rolling Stones, and a sober, more gentlemanly style suggested by George Bernard Shaw circa 1950. In Azzuolo's competent hands, this sartorial fusion produced a Big Bang collection of "mismatched" suitings, elegant tweeds and handsome classics, sharpened with touches of Continental tailoring and Parisian flair. His deft use of recycled fur adds hints of dandyism: one vest reverses from lustrous mink to simple wool pinstripes, and even something as ostensibly basic as a pea coat looks more polished with its bold fur collar, tight twill cloth and bright metal buttons.

It takes a mature talent to create interesting menswear that's not outlandish, and to recognize that even fashion consumers don't always want a designer to reinvent the wheel. Sometimes, the most satisfying solution is one that feels vaguely familiar. As Azzuolo himself puts it, "the idea is to be both old and new, to go forward while looking to the past." We're already looking ahead to Spring '10, and we can't wait to see what Antonio Azzuolo will show us.

Top: Fur-trimmed wool coat and cotton shirt by Antonio Azzuolo. Silk tie by Band of Outsiders. Bottom: Tweed jacket, reversible mink-and-wool vest and cotton shirt by Antonio Azzuolo. Jeans by Dior Homme. Wool tie by Hermès. Shoes by Acne.

www.antonioazzuolo.com and www.kesner-ny.com

Photograph: Noël Sutherland www.noelsutherland.com

Grooming: Stacy Beneke for Mark Edward, Inc. www.markedwardinc.com
Model: Jake Madden at Ford Models www.fordmodels.com

Styling: Mark Grischke Portfolio 1 and Portfolio 2

Understated Luxury: Birds of Sausalito's Boxers

2009-06-14T17:01:00.000-04:00

Boxers or briefs? For some men, there's no question: boxer shorts literally define masculinity. FA2L doesn't follow such hard-and-fast rules--briefs seem right under jeans, for example, but boxers are nice for lounging around the house. Our main concern is with quality, which means comfortable fabrics, strong construction, discrete labels (if any) and no bunchy, scrunchy elastic waistbands. This makes the Birds of Sausalito custom-fit boxer (shown above), with its near-perfect score, such a great find.

Megan and Michael Papay, Birds of Sausalito's founders, offer a textbook example of matching product to demand. Megan studied costume design at the University of Virginia; worked in New York as a fashion publicist; and ran a made-to-measure company dressing the quietly rich women of Wilmington, Delaware. Michael specialized in entrepreneurship at Babson College. When a job for Michael moved the couple to Sausalito, just north of San Francisco, Megan started thinking about a new venture that would take advantage of her fashion experience and Michael's business savvy. She knew the women's clothing market was over-saturated, so she focused on menswear; and she chose to concentrate on the luxury end of the spectrum, where a good idea could allow her to dominate a niche. Underwear had already seen several decades of remarkable growth, but most new businesses were pushing briefs. Megan and Michael set their sights on luxurious boxer shorts, and launched Birds of Sausalito in 2006.

The casual consumer may ask, what can possibly make one boxer more luxurious than another? For aficionados, the answer is simple: superior fabric, sturdy-yet-elegant construction, and no elastic, anywhere. Custom shirt makers, like Charvet, are one source for perfectly-sized, finely-finished boxers, but only if money is truly no object. At the other end of the scale, Brooks Bros. still makes its tie-back version (with, as the name implies, a string that ties in back, adjusting the waist) and its Frenchback boxer (with a fabric tab and buttons performing the same function). The fabric and details are basic--not bad, not luxurious--but the fit is traditional in every sense of the word, with front pleats and a very generous cut. Comfortable? Yes. Flattering? Not always.

Birds of Sausalito's boxers are more expensive than the Brooks Bros. shorts, but the Papays have upped the luxury quotient considerably, resulting in a product that's similar to a custom-made item (using 448-count Pima cotton, single-needle construction, and mother-of-pearl buttons) at less-than-custom prices. They manage this by working with a Peruvian company that's vertically integrated, meaning it grows, processes, and weaves the cotton, then cuts, sews and finishes the boxers (as well as a new line of pajamas). There are two styles: the classic fit, which combines a smooth front with an elastic back and a generous seat gusset; and, our favorite, the custom fit. This boxer is slim and trim, with a tailored yoke and charmingly large buttons. Its only flaw (we may be in the minority here) is a small section of elastic in the center back for "ease." Boxer enthusiasts will appreciate it as underwear; guys who wear briefs will like it as lounge wear. As Megan says, "Birds of Sausalito boxers are for someone who appreciates quality. He's willing to pay a little more (when something is worth it) because he knows it will last longer." Our feelings exactly.

www.birdsboxers.com

Photograph: Noël Sutherland www.noelsutherland.com
Grooming: Stacy Beneke for Mark Edward, Inc. www.markedwardinc.com
Model: Jake Madden at Ford Models www.fordmodels.com

The House, and Wardrobe, That Luxury Built

2009-06-07T15:45:00.000-04:00

Hermès is justly famous for its leather bags, its silk scarves and ties, and its fragrances. Most men, however, are surprised to learn that every six months, Hermès also offers up a new line of clothing, shoes and accessories. That's because these collections, presented during the twice-yearly Paris men's runway shows, are relatively subdued: they don't offer the headline-grabbing theatrics, gimmicks, or flights of fancy the fashion press loves (and the popular press loves to hate). This doesn't mean the clothes lack drama, but it's cloaked, hidden in the fabrics, details and special care lavished on their construction. This is stealth luxury at its finest, made all the more desirable because these items won't end up in every mall around the world. They're only sold in Hermès shops (or shops-within-a-shop), and few Hermès boutiques carry the full line.

Véronique Nichanian is head menswear designer for Hermès, and the creative force behind its collections. She's loved fabric ever since she was a little girl, when she drove her mother to distraction buying bolts of cloth and lugging them back to the family's Paris apartment. It was a natural choice for her to study women's fashion design at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, but, after graduating, she took a position as Nino Cerruti's assistant and plunged into the world of men's tailoring. Cerrutti introduced her to every facet of the menswear market, and was as passionate about fine fabrics as she was--perhaps even more so. One challenge led to another, and before she realized it, she'd been with Cerrutti 11 years. Then a certain man named Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermès came calling, and her fate was sealed.

Nichanian has been at Hermès some 20 years now, but she seems as enthusiastic as a novice fresh out of school (which may account for her looking a fraction of her age, as well). She obviously loves designing for the Hermès man--a discerning customer who, in her mind, ranges from age 18 to 80. She's not interested in flashy, disposable fashion: her clothes are meant to be kept for years, acquiring a certain patina and the "set" of the man who wears them. Because Hermès is a true luxury house (one of the last), cost is no object, and Nichanian is given free rein to shop the world for the best silks, leathers, woolens or whatever material obsession has inspired a collection. Of course, the final results, from perfect cashmere-and-silk scarves to buttery reindeer-skin jackets, are often very expensive (another reason the clothing isn't widely available), but any man who loves beautiful things should make a point of familiarizing himself with Nichanian's wardrobe suggestions. They're sure to offer great satisfaction for many years to come.

www.hermes.com

Weather Report: Mediterranean Sunshine in NYC

2009-05-20T21:19:00.000-04:00

The Zegna family does not do things in a small way, and that includes the launch of a new fragrance. On a recent Tuesday evening, Anna Zegna hosted a cocktail-fueled "unveiling" for several hundred of her nearest and dearest New York editors at the company's sleek Fifth Avenue flagship store. Flutes of Champagne, iced vodka drinks and platters of bite-sized Italian delicacies were passed around by waiters so good-looking, they may well have been flown in from Milan; and Anna, whippet-thin and beautifully turned out (in soft trousers and a jacket cut to hug her ribs) moved like an elegant standard-bearer through the crowd.

But the real star of the evening was Zegna Colonia, a bright, fresh addition to Ermenegildo Zegna's fragrance collection. Invoking the masculine glamour and ease of la Dolce Vita, the cologne layers neroli and Sicilian bergamot (small citrus trees cultivated in southern Italy) over hints of iris, on a base of musk, benzoin and cedar. The result is familiar and comfortable, rather than bold or distinctive, and brings to mind another generation's "toilet waters" and the straightforward smells of old-fashioned barber shops. In the company's own words, Colonia is meant to be worn like a linen suit, in that dressed-down summertime realm "between confirmed elegance and affirmed casualness." Tuesday night, with Memorial Day just around the corner, this formula seemed especially appealing: men left the party with a certain swagger, probably realizing they smelled better going out the door than they had coming in. It's a good thing for all concerned that New York City doesn't have a Trevi fountain!

www.zegna.com

RITES OF PASSAGE, MEMBERS OF THE TRIBE

2009-05-15T02:14:00.000-04:00

Certain fashion personalities are so strong that anything caught and held in their gaze is cast in a different light: a vintage silhouette informs a new collection, '30s movie stills inspire advertising campaigns, and gangly teenagers morph into supermodel goddesses. Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld--the king of couture--is one such figure. Hedi Slimane, former menswear designer at Christian Dior, is another.

Now a photographer with an almost febrile instinct for tracking glamour to its lair, Slimane recently turned his camera (and his x-ray eyes) on France's elite St. Cyr military academy. Napoléon founded the school in 1803 and, being something of a dandy himself, helped design its original uniforms; two centuries later, many of the little emperor's influences are still evident. Slimane knew this--his photographs, which ran in last weekend's magazine section of Libération, were shot, ostensibly, as a fashion portfolio--but he didn't stop there. He managed to pierce St. Cyr's official facade (still evident on faces of a few wary cadets) and catch the barely-contained energy of rambunctious 20-somethings learning to harness their emotions through discipline. The result is both a brilliant study of power and style, and a sensitive ethnographic record of a rarely-glimpsed tribe and its customs.

www.hedislimane.com