It's Iconic: Gucci Collector, Presented by Christie's

Fashion, by definition, is fleeting, but style endures–especially if the item in question is built to last. And while FA2L is most interested in the passions motivating creators and collectors, we do pay close attention to anything that influences shoppers and thus determines whether or not money changes hands. Fashion copy is full of code words (euphemisms, really), weighted to tip a consumer's mental scales in favor of buying. So cheap separates become better basics, ugly bridesmaids' dresses are labeled Special Occasion and overpriced-but-underwhelming designer goods are reborn as Investment Dressing.

This silly jargon would be funny if contemporary shoppers weren't so gullible. But as post-Industrial tastes shifted from quality to quantity, whole skill sets were lost, along with any context for choosing beautiful, handmade items over shiny gewgaws with shockingly brief shelf lives. As a result, true investment dressing, meaning a reliable wardrobe of distinctive, well-made clothes and accessories (which, by the way, we heartily endorse) was lost in the mass stampede.

Still, there's always hope. We particularly like Gucci's new arrangement with Christie's auction house, whereby collectors are encouraged to submit photographs of vintage pieces to online costume specialists who will do their best to provide accurate appraisals. Gucci plans to open a museum in Florence in 2011 (its 90th anniversary), so the experts at Christie's are looking for special items the company might want for its permanent collection. Meanwhile, there's a brand-wide focus on house icons, including updated versions of the bamboo-handled handbag and the Jackie shoulder bag (which, for Gucci aficionados, are true investment pieces). In tough economic times, it's that much more important to follow shopping's cardinal rule: you get what you pay for.

Photograph of vintage Gucci handbag courtesy of Gucci Collector: Presented by Christie's.

The Bag As Artifact & Symbol of Grace Under Fire

Ah, the secret world of women's purses, handbags, satchels and the like. I often ask female friends to detail the contents of their bags, and most of them know to the last mint what's socked away in each corner: BlackBerry, makeup kit, wallet, newspaper, magazines (important pages dog-eared or flagged with color-coded tabs), sunglasses, water bottle, flip-flops (or sneakers, in winter), hand sanitizer, SHOUT stain removing wipes, assorted pens, Motrin, and enough sundries to stock a small pharmacy. And that's just for starters–most professions (including motherhood) add to the checklist. An odd, and seemingly contradictory corollary, states that no matter what size a bag may be, it will be filled to capacity. The anthropologist in me can't help but suspect this all goes back to our days as hunters and gatherers.

There is no single, perfect bag, of course, but certain things are key. Handbags are fun for special lunches and afternoon events, and they're killer status items, but as functioning elements in the average woman's wardrobe, they hardly register. Totes seem practical, but they're often very heavy when full (see corollary above), and most won't slip over a shoulder (even Diana, goddess of the hunt, carried a shoulder bag of sorts–a quiver). The best day-to-day bags have adjustable straps so their fit can be personalized; they're neither too small nor too big; and they're tough enough to bear constant stress while looking chic and breezy. Rather like society expects of women themselves.

Gucci's new Icon Bit bag strikes me as a contender. It's of medium size, with smart pleats that expand or contract (and mold around a woman's side when squashed under her arm); it has a practically-perfect shoulder strap with beautiful hardware; and it purrs luxury instead of screaming "look at me." This purple suede is especially pretty; but there are also black or cream calfskin versions and a very glamorous model in shiny black python. The popular press has eulogized the passing of the "status bag," but what comes next? We say, "The Status Bag is dead. Long live the (new) Status Bag."

www.gucci.com