New York Shopping at LetterJ – It's All In a Name

   Men in New York have a new shopping destination, with an unusual name – LetterJ. It's housed in an airy former gallery space on West 23rd Street, near the Chelsea Piers and the High Line; but once inside, you could just as easily be in Santa Monica, or on Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles. Sunlight streams through floor-to-ceiling front windows, lighting up a want that, need that selection of (mostly) casual clothing, plus accessories, bags, even candles and books. 

   Fashion As a 2nd Language visited LetterJ recently, and marveled at the range of unusual brands and reasonable prices. Here's a short list of names we saw on the shelves: Burkman Bros, Boy London, Gant Rugger (and Gant by Michael Bastian), Save Khaki, Mason's and Psycho Bunny. There are bracelets by M. Cohen, bags by Herschel Supply Co, and colorful skull candles, above, by D.L. & Co.

   LetterJ is the brainchild of Jason Somerfeld, an expert retailer and buyer with a big-picture understanding of what men want. He's stocked the store with products that create one aha moment after another: and he's priced them so an entire weekend's worth of gear (jeans, shorts, a couple of tees and a great-looking linen shirt) don't cost an arm and a leg. He's also chosen goods that appeal to all types of men, from skateboarders to retired lawyers. On the day we visited, we saw 20-somethings, 30-somethings and one particularly stylish 50-something shopping in the store – and each guy left with more than one item.

   And what's with the name, LetterJ? Somerfeld says, "It's in honor of my mother, JoJo, who always inspired me. It's also the first letter in my nephew's name, Jake, and in my own, of course – Jason." And don't they say, the family that shops together stays together? We're sold!

Photographs by Noël Sutherland

Corporate Suit, or Rocker? John Varvatos Tells All

John Varvatos at the 92nd St Y. Photograph by Joyce Culver.

     Last night, John Varvatos sat down with Fern Mallis on the main stage of Manhattan's Kaufman Concert Hall (at the 92nd St Y), to participate in Mallis's on-going series of friendly-and-informative interviews known as Fashion Icons. On the table was an in-depth conversation about his "crowded" childhood in Detroit (his Greek-American family of seven lived in a tiny house), his early interest in rock & roll (from Iggy Pop and MC5 to Peter Frampton and Kiss), and, perhaps most important, his extensive training inside the corporate structure of two powerhouse brands: Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein.

   We've known Varvatos for many years, but some of his revelations were entirely new, including his story about working on the sales floor at Fitzgerald's, a men's clothier in Grand Rapids, Michigan. We knew the store well –– and we're pretty sure we bought a Polo Ralph Lauren linen sport coat there, which we subsequently wore to a (successful) job interview at VOGUE. In other words, our paths crossed with Varvatos much earlier than 2000, which is when we formally met him, previewed his eponymous collection, and photographed a handsome sheepskin coat for a "10 Best" story in ForbesLife magazine.

   Varvatos is a quintessential American designer –– his menswear hits all the right spots for average guys who want to look cool, but not too close to fashion's outer edge. As he's matured, he's turned more and more to his early loves, to the point where he now operates a store-cum-shrine on the premises of the former CBGB, and rubs shoulders with the same rock & roll icons who show up in his advertising campaigns. He's even launched John Varvatos Records, in conjunction with Republic Records. He plans to use the label for re-issues, compilations, and presenting new talent. And to think, it all began in Detroit, with a Buco leather jacket, "Sam's Jams" record store, and a dream.

Levi's Plus Filson: A Case of Double Happiness

We love Levi's (founded in 1873, the same year the company patented and made its first blue jeans) and we love Filson, too (1897), so it naturally follows we're crazy about some of the products in the collaborative collection known as Levi's Workwear by Filson. We own a handsome, no-nonsense denim-and-canvas tote with leather handles (from a previous collection) and we're often stopped by discerning guys-around-town who want to know: Where can I find that bag? We suspect lots of men will respond similarly to this Hunter Trucker jacket in sturdy, oiled Shelter Cloth, complete with interior zipper (overlapped by a buttoned front), a moleskin collar, and Levi's distinctive front pockets. So this time, we're alerting readers (and all style-conscious men) in advance: Buy this jacket now, or regret not doing so later...

We Sing the Body Electric (and Fashionable)

Here at FA2L, we understand that fashion is about more than clothes: it touches every aspect of human culture, from architecture to furniture design to trends in cooking, art and parenting. Spookily enough, it also affects how the human body itself is perceived and presented. At the turn of the 19th century, for example, fashionable women's bodies were encased in corsets to produce the era's most-preferred,"S"-shaped form. By the 'teens, those same bodies (sans corsets) looked more and more tubular; and by the '20s, so-called waistlines had dropped to the hips, hair was cropped short and busts were often bandaged flat.

But women aren't the only sex to struggle with body issues: the male form has also been subject to fashion's changing whims. In the 20th century alone, men went from being celebrated as sleek, Art Deco icons (think Gary Cooper) to broad-shouldered, married-with-family types (William Holden, perhaps) to slim-hipped, long-haired rock & rollers like Mick Jagger. Then, in the early '80s, Bruce Weber trained his fashion-conscious lens on a specific breed: guys who were just as photogenic as girls (and just as pretty), but exaggeratedly masculine at the same time. This combination proved so powerful, it's been used to sell everything from Calvin Klein underwear to Gillette razors. Its current brokers are Milan's fashion elite–brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and DSquared2 (whose Spring '11 campaign, above, features the Adonis-like Diego Miguel, photographed by Mert & Marcus). Of course, digital retouching has also upped the ante, rendering fashion's young gods and goddesses virtually perfect. So–are you ready for your close-up?

Pyrenex & Alexis Mabille: Braving the Elements

We ♥ New York, but not its winters: they're icy, cold and just plain l-o-n-g. So although it's only October, and still relatively mild, we're already planning ahead–which is why this jacket caught our eye. It's part of a capsule collection designed by Alexis Mabille for Pyrenex, a 150-year-old French company specializing in high-quality goose down. If this coat's details are any indication, the partnership–Pyrenex x Alexis Mabille–is just about perfect. (We especially like the quilting, the removable hood, the many pockets and the two-way zipper.) Buy it online via Studio Homme and prepare to laugh at Mother Nature.

Balmain Homme: Shop Now For...Autumn 2010?

Skinny, fashion-obsessed men the world over are chasing a new status brand: Balmain. After rapidly resuscitating the moribund label's women's business (and landing W's prime December '09 cover with Demi Moore in bronze warrior-princess regalia straight off Balmain's Spring '10 runway), house designer Christophe Decarnin is giving it to the guys. His subversive, almost twisted take on high-end fashion ignores standard notions of luxury and goes for the jugular, combining Hedi Slimane's slim cuts with grungier sensibilities akin to early Marc Jacobs. And it's working: after just three seasons (in a down economy, no less), he's built a rabid following for astronomically-priced motocross jeans and stealthily chic outerwear.

But that's not the only news. Such is the demand for these clothes, and so high are the price tags, Balmain is letting men pre-order items from its Fall '10 collection (even as New York designers are still in the throes of showing next autumn's offerings) through an arrangement with Italy's Luisa Via Roma. Click on the store's name in the foregoing sentence: this entire look, above–quilted bomber with leather shoulders, checked shirt, jeans and boots–can be reserved now, for delivery in late September. Which leaves plenty of time to pay off the $5,000-plus charge you'll encounter on your credit card statement.

Devon Scott, A Tailor For Modern Gentlemen

Traditional menswear manufacturers, left to their own devices, are often rule-bound, stodgy and dull (cardinal sins in the world of fashion). However, even elementary items–suits, shirts, ties–can turn glorious in the hands of the right designer. Make no mistake: tinkering with the basics is tricky business, requiring an appreciation of tailored subtleties leavened with just enough originality to make the old new; and while "updating the classics" may sound like a walk in the park, it's more like running a marathon. Long apprenticeships, followed by years spent building credibility, will exhaust even deep reserves of stamina.

And yet, sometimes–like Athena springing fully formed from Zeus's head–a not-so-traditional menswear collection seems to appear out of nowhere. Such is the case with Devon Scott. This dashing young man from High Point, North Carolina has no formal design training (he moved to Manhattan to pursue acting), but growing up with a stylish grandfather left him obsessed with the finer points of classic tailoring. This served him well as a sales associate at Jeffrey New York (a job he took to pay the bills while pounding the pavement), where he gradually realized he wanted to design clothes rather than merely sell them. His first collection of dress shirts sold out, giving him confidence to take on tailored clothing. He found a small Long Island factory presided over by a third-generation tailor; and although the learning curve was steep, Scott was a quick study. He's also a quintessential gentleman, so even though some of his requests (for details like high armholes, slim lapels and very narrow silhouettes) were met with disbelief, he persevered and eventually won over the factory's resident experts.

Scott's clothes aren't flashy, but they're sharp, smart and beautifully detailed–a burgundy blazer, cut from buttery cashmere, has a softly-draped shawl collar and real mother-of-pearl buttons, and a grey flannel suit, though double-breasted, is so Art Deco-sleek it has no extra bulk. The pièce de résistance is his vested dinner suit, with roped shoulders and a trim waist. It's simply perfect, the sort of wardrobe staple a man appreciates every time he puts it on. As for the designer himself, he's too modest to praise his work: "The clothes," he insists, "should speak for themselves." They do, Devon, in dulcet tones, and FA2L loves what they say. At Jeffrey New York, 212.206.1271.

Photo 1: Wool suit by Devon Scott. Cotton shirt by Gucci. Silk-and-cotton tie by Alexander Olch. Photo 2: Cashmere blazer by Devon Scott. Cotton shirt from the Black Fleece Collection by Brooks Bros. Jeans by Edwin. Alligator shoes by Gucci. Photo 3: Wool 3-piece tuxedo by Devon Scott. Cotton shirt by Costume National Homme. Shoes by Bottega Veneta. Photo 4: Cotton shirt by Devon Scott. Sterling silver cuff links by Robin Rotenier.

Photographs by Michael Stratton. Grooming by Lorenzo Martone at Link NYLA. Michael Whittaker and Michael Elmquist at dna models. Styled by Mark Grischke. © Fashion As a 2nd Language & Michael Stratton.

A Little Bit of Scotland Plus a Lot of French Flair

The French house of Hermès is famous for its printed silk scarves and ties, but the company's menswear designer, Véronique Nichanian, also creates unusual accessories such as ties made of leather, cotton-and-silk or marvelously-textured wool tweed. FA2L loves this go-to-hell version of a Scottish plaid, complete with fringed edges and bright colors. It's the perfect bit of dash for any stylish man: traditional enough, but not so much that he'll want to play the bagpipes; and very, very chic. It's hanging in Hermès stores now (at a reasonable price, considering the tags on adjacent items) so snap one up while you can. And remember how nice those orange boxes look next to birthday cakes, peeking out of Christmas stockings or piled up under the tree.