Need New Specs? Try Archibald Optics On For Size

We're enamored of the simple premise behind London-based Archibald Optics: peruse the company's online catalogue and request three different frames (which will be sent to you at no charge); try on the various styles at home (or, for that matter, wherever you may find yourself); ask friends and family what they think of your selections (and perhaps snap a few pics to share on Instagram); then provide Archibald Optics with the name and style number of your final choice, specific bespoke requirements and, of course, your prescription. Your customized specs will be made in Japan and shipped directly to you. 

We had the opportunity to test at least part of this process: we enlisted the help of a "real guy" model (that's Nick, above), and ordered a set of frames we thought would complement his great features. Then we dressed him up, overhauled his grooming, and took some pictures. In the end, we liked the Abebe frame (top) the best: its masculine lines flatter Nick's face, and its shades of honeyed tortoise work well with Nick's coloring. (Fun fact: the frame is named for Abebe Bikila, famed barefoot champion of the 1960 Olympic marathon.) Like its namesake, the Abebe was far-and-away the winner–the two (distant) runners-up were the Fergusen (above, left) and the Ayrton (above, right). As for Archibald Optics itself? Service like this outstrips the competition.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Grooming by Davide Marinelli/MUZE Salon. Produced and styled by Mark Grischke for Fashion As a 2nd Language

Each and Every Day Should be a Day of Hermès

Jean-Claude Ellena is the creator of some remarkable fragrances, including Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, for Bulgari; Osmanthus, for The Different Company; and Terre d'Hermès, for Hermès (of course), where he's currently the in-house "nose" and resident perfumer. His style has an element of nouvelle cuisine about it, eschewing hearty traditionalism for the transparency–and zest–of fresh-from-the-garden fare. We mean that literally: his latest scent, Jour d'Hermès, conjures up not just flowers, but an entire kitchen garden planted just beyond the windows and basking in the sun. So, while a quick first spritz of Jour d'Hermès suggests lily of the valley (along with the sharp, vegetable tang of tomato stems), followed by gardenia, rose and (perhaps) hyacinth, there's also a tenacious presence (with hints of cucumber, sage and even olive oil) that grows stronger and stronger as the other notes dry down. Gradually, a familiar, soap-scrubbed personality takes shape, and you realize someone else is in the room–perhaps a parent, sibling, grandparent or spouse. Ultimately, it's the smell of warmth, love, cooking and the comforts of home. In other words, chez soi.

Photograph by Noël Sutherland

Avshalom, Avshalom: Fine Gold Jewelry For Men

Bracelets and gold pendant by PerePaix. Cotton tank top by Robert P. Miller

Jewelry designer Avshalom Rave came to his craft almost by accident. After moving from Israel to New York to accommodate a boyfriend's career, he found himself becoming what he only half-jokingly describes as a "desperate housewife" in Manhattan. To amuse himself, he made jewelry he could wear around town–and was pleasantly surprised when other people liked his work and asked to buy it for themselves.

Gold pendant on leather cord by PerePaix.

Response was so great, in fact, that Rave soon found it necessary to set up shop in Tel Aviv, employing a small team of craftsmen and salespeople to produce and promote his necklaces, bracelets and rings for men. He named the endeavor PerePaix (French for "Father Peace," a play on his first name, Avshalom), and drew inspiration from the heritage of his mixed Mediterranean roots–an Egyptian mother, a Yemenite father and a childhood spend in Israel. The result? A range of bold pieces incorporating ancient symbols of heraldry and masculinity, reinterpreted with an artist's eye for elegant lines and fine details. 

Gold pendant on leather cord by PerePaix. Leather parka by Bally.

Until recently, Rave had worked almost exclusively in sterling silver, but this season he succumbed to the Midas touch (which we at FA2L happen to love). Rendered in 14k gold, PerePaix's symbols look like remnants of ancient civilizations–plunder from the siege of Troy, perhaps, or artifacts discovered in a long-lost Babylonian cache.

A portrait of the designer, Avshalom Rave

As for Rave himself, he's thrilled by the growing response to his work (if a bit daunted by the size of recent orders). His main goal for 2013 is to increase the number of stores carrying his jewelry–and, for that matter, the number of guys wearing it. We're fairly sure that as more and more men discover his designs, they'll be lining up to buy them.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Grooming by Davide Marinelli/MUZE Salon. Model: Clark Cord at Ford Models. Produced and styled by Mark Grischke for Fashion As a 2nd Language.

A Champagne Toast to Love on St. Valentine's Day

This Valentine's Day, we're skipping flowers, chocolate and jewelry in favor of spending the day with our special someone. And to keep things festive, there's nothing like a few glasses of fizzy, ice-cold Champagne. Moët & Chandon's Rosé Impérial seems an appropriate choice: it's pink, nicely dry and–if you need additional incentives–it even comes with a set of stickers for customizing the bottle. You'll find it at upscale wine merchants, including Sherry-Lehmann in New York (and online).

NY Fashion Week Hits Back at Hurricane Sandy

We here at Fashion As a 2nd Language have every reason to rail at Hurricane Sandy–the storm flooded the Financial District building where we live and work and forced us to evacuate to higher ground (i.e., the Bronx). So we were excited to learn that ISAORA, a New York-based performance clothing company, asked 13 artists to transform individual examples of the label's Tech 3-L riding shells (like the version by graffiti artist, KATSU, above). The jackets are being auctioned on eBay to raise funds for Hurricane Sandy relief. Interested? If so, act quickly: bids close Monday, February 11, at 10 a.m. Don't snooze or you'll lose. 

Just In Time For Spring, A New Kind of Boat Shoe

Just when the sight of another deck shoe was about to make us scream, we received an email about a line of Spring 2013 shoes by Alejandro Ingelmo. Called "Made In Maine," this witty collection (for both men and women) crosses Ingelmo's urban sensibilities with preppy classics. The results–from boat shoes on extra-thick soles (like the Admiral, above), to chunky moccasins to neon-bright loafers–look surprisingly contemporary. And, yes, the shoes are, indeed, hand-sewn in Maine. How's that for a little Cuban-American ingenuity?

Seeing Clearly Now–the New Chic of Transparency

Transparency is far more common in fashion than it is in, say, banking (or government), so it's no surprise that recent, 90s-influenced collections include plenty of references to that era's see-through clothes and accessories. Of course, plastic garments have been around since the 1920s (even earlier, counting celluloid collars and rubberized footwear), and made memorable appearances in the 1960s (Courrèges, Mary Quant, etc). But 90s transparency was only glancingly influenced by the Space Age–instead, designers in the last decade of the 20th century were far more obsessed with reclaiming iconic fashion tropes, deconstructing them and issuing new (and decidedly ironic) versions. At times, fashion seemed caught in a revolving door of historical references (70s bell bottoms one season, 50s frocks the next). It was also a period of extremes, with star power at each end of a long continuum: Karl Lagerfeld and his high-baroque extravaganzas chez Chanel versus Jil Sander's (or Helmut Lang's) cool displays of minimalism. (Not to mention the stealthy massing of forces at a Milanese operation formerly known for manufacturing nylon bags and backpacks with inexplicable insider appeal–la Casa di Miuccia Prada.)

But that's all fashion history. What's in store for Spring 2013? We spotted this RED Valentino PVC trench coat while shopping in San Francisco, and immediately fell in love with its jaunty attitude. We feel the same about this leather-piped PVC sandal with a buckled Mary Jane strap, by Manolo Blahnik. Finally, the PVC camellia brooch, by Chanel (of course), is a recent–but not current–rendering of one of the brand's key pieces of iconography. If you can't find it in stores, check ebay. As the 90s proved, no fashion ever dies–it just gets sold at auction.

Walk More Than a Mile In Armando Cabral's Shoes

A selection of Armando Cabral's beautifully-detailed boots, shoes and sneakers

Although you may not know the name, you'll certainly know the face: Armando Cabral is instantly recognizable. The striking Portuguese model's sleek frame, elegant bone structure and flashing smile grace designer advertisements and catalogs (including J. Crew's) around the world. But recently, Cabral took a step in a new direction, and now designs a handsome collection of men's shoes, boots and sneakers.

The model-turned-designer, Armando Cabral

FA2L previewed the Fall 2012 collection several months ago, during New York Fashion Week, and we oohed and aahed over one sample after another. Cabral's styling is masculine, but chic: he uses wonderful details (beautiful leathers, welted soles and quality laces) in artful ways to make upscale versions of basic footwear, including work boots, brogues and high top sneakers. These last were real favorites: they're made of deerskin, with thick rubber soles, and look great in petrol grey.

A festive, candlelit display of Cabral's leather sneakers and boot

Look for Armando Cabral's designs at Odin stores (in New York); Steven Alan (in New York and Los Angeles); and, online, at Mr Porter. It's been said before but we'll say it again: your feet will thank you.

Photographs: top, by Ron Reeves; middle and bottom, by Stéphane Israël

A Small Piece of the Earth, to Wear On Your Finger

Who says jewelry has to feature a precious stone–or that it's got to be mounted in silver, gold or platinum? Each of Anna Rabinowicz's Ondo rings is cut, shaped, polished and designed to be all of a piece, so the natural material–Brazilian agate–is all you see. Rabinowicz has even left a rough face on each ring, for an effect that's sleekly contemporary and ancient as the earth. You'll find a selection at Rabinowicz's website, RabLabs, along with other (naturally) beautiful accessories.

Hot Child In the City: A Sizzling Swimwear Review

As much as we love the beach, we can still appreciate the undeniable sultriness of an August weekend spent in the city. To avoid overheating, drink plenty of liquids; keep exertion to a minimum; and, of course, wear as little as possible. Modern swimwear offers every option, from low-cut racers to swim shorts finished so nicely, you could walk around town in them. In other words, how much to bare is for you to decide.

Swim shorts by T Christopher. Sunglasses by Blinde. Sandals by DSquared. Beach blanket by Hermès. In this portfolio: Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Bart G at Ford Models. Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Produced and styled by Mark Grischke for FA2L.

Low-rise Paradiso swimsuit by Kyle King. Rose-gold-and-turquoise necklace by TendenZa.

Multicolored Cabo swim trunks by 2(X)IST.  Stainless-steel watch by Omega.

Lavender-striped swim trunks with side pockets by Kyle King. Suede sandals by Hermès. 

Square-cut swimsuit by T Christopher. Leather-and-gold bracelet (worn on wrist) by H. Stern.

The Louis Cartier XL Slimline Watch–It's Got Guts

No question about it: the writers and photographers who make up the talent pool at Fashion As a 2nd Language have a weakness for beautiful watches. Over the years, we've visited Switzerland more often than we could count; we've toured a dozen watch-making factories; we've photographed and written about some of the most extraordinary watches in the world; and we've even taken brief courses in how to assemble a timepiece by hand (let's just say there are lots of tiny gears and such that have to find a place inside the case). But every once in a while, a watch comes along that is, quite simply, perfect.

The classic Cartier tank watch is anything but new–it debuted in 1917 and remained a perennial favorite–but for many years it's only been available as a quartz plaything. This year, however, Cartier introduced the Louis Cartier XL Slimline, which houses an automatic movement: i.e., the gears, springs and precision parts that, in the world of watches, separate the men from the boys. In other words, it's a real watch–but only you, the owner, will be likely to know that. Which, in our not-so-humble opinion, makes for understated chic at its very, very best.