Fashion's ABCs: "B" is For Biker Boy–and Belstaff

When it comes to Fashion's alphabet, "B" belongs to "Biker Chic," as evidenced by top-of-the-line brands as diverse as Balmain, Burberry and now Belstaff. All three of these labels start with the same basic masculine accoutrements–traditional men's sportswear and, specifically, driving gear–but then add either dustings of glam rock glitter (in the case of Balmain), or varying shades of sepia-toned nostalgia to invoke the dashing spirit of a hundred years's worth of live-fast-and-die-young, speed-loving men.

Martin Cooper is Belstaff's most recent designer (after a 16-year stint with Burberry's outerwear design team), and he's obviously decided to emphasize the chic in Biker Chic. These are extremely fancy clothes, made of cashmere, calfskin, crocodile, shearling and the like. But they're also cool, in the way that reworked classics can be. Shades of Hermès? Perhaps. Overtones of Burberry? Yes. However, that distinctive belted jacket is definitely Belstaff's own, whether made of the original waxed cotton from the 1920s or très haute olive green leather. And all we know is, we want one, now!

When New York City Was Fashion's State of Mind

Strange but true: American fashion, even in the second decade of the 21st century, owes most of its residual power (such as it is) to a unique cultural explosion that happened in New York City, circa 1976-81. At the time, the bright glow of neon lights tended to obscure that era's darker currents; but just choose a vice (flagrant hedonism and/or narcissism, hyped-up celebrity, overt and covert sexuality, rampant drug use and all manner of scandalous behavior) and you'll find ample proof it flourished in mid-to-late-'70s Manhattan. And since excess is always fascinating, it's no surprise that current designers–including the very youngest–still look back to that period for resonant inspiration.

Photographer Rose Hartman was there, camera in hand, and many of the pictures she took in that decadent heyday still speak loud and clear. Her book, Birds of Paradise (1980), offered a remarkably insightful look at fashion's "big picture" (at FA2L, we keep a copy by our bedside), and introduced readers to larger-than-life personalities like Diana Vreeland (then at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute), Steve Rubell (owner of Studio 54) and Candy Pratts Price (who'd already made a name for herself designing edgy windows at Bloomingdale's). Hartman is still very much on the go, but her archives are earmarked for the Fashion Institute of Technology–the site of this evening's opening-night party to celebrate an exhibit of 60 of Hartman's photographs representing Incomparable Women of Style. That would certainly include Apollonia, above, a lithe Dutch model with a sexy-yet-doll-like face who took NYC by storm. Stop by F.I.T.'s Gladys Marcus Library before January 20 to see this rara avis (and others) for yourself.

Levi's Plus Filson: A Case of Double Happiness

We love Levi's (founded in 1873, the same year the company patented and made its first blue jeans) and we love Filson, too (1897), so it naturally follows we're crazy about some of the products in the collaborative collection known as Levi's Workwear by Filson. We own a handsome, no-nonsense denim-and-canvas tote with leather handles (from a previous collection) and we're often stopped by discerning guys-around-town who want to know: Where can I find that bag? We suspect lots of men will respond similarly to this Hunter Trucker jacket in sturdy, oiled Shelter Cloth, complete with interior zipper (overlapped by a buttoned front), a moleskin collar, and Levi's distinctive front pockets. So this time, we're alerting readers (and all style-conscious men) in advance: Buy this jacket now, or regret not doing so later...

Fashion Moments: Lady Gaga Makes An Entrance

Lady Gaga arrives at the CFDA Awards. Photograph by Tommy Ton/Style.com

Fashion is a 2nd Language–but any style-sensitive observer worth her Mugler couture knows one picture is worth 10,000 words. The eagle-eyed Tommy Ton managed to be in precisely the right place at exactly the right time to catch Lady Gaga's descent from Mount Olympus, just as her toes touched the earth and her tulle skirt unfurled. Even her turquoise bob was glowing with an otherworldly light. The lesson? Fashion moments happen at lightspeed; blink, and you'll miss one.

For Dads, Grads & Other Lads: College Cuff Links

If you're still looking for a graduation present for a young man leaving college, or something for Father's Day, we'd like to suggest a pair of "College Colors" cuff links by the rather oddly-named (but very fine) American company, Baade II. Here at FA2L, we have a real horror of one-sided, "T"-backed or otherwise cheap-looking cuff links, but these beauties are the real deal: solid sterling silver or gold, with beautiful, hand-enameled cloisonné or champlevé vitreous faces. And the range of colors is extensive, so the school–and the man–you want to honor are sure to be represented.  

The House of Orange: Fashion & Luxury Royalty

Sometimes, it's just about the shoes–in this case, a canvas peep-toe bootie on a stacked heel and platform, trimmed in orange leather, buckled up the back and laced up the front. Who makes it? Isn't it obvious? There ought to be a Pantone color named Hermès orange...

Brit Fashion: An Empire Built on Understatement

We'll quickly admit (at the drop of a chapeau, in fact) to loving most things French, but–surprise, surprise!–we're also closet Anglophiles. Why? Pretty peaches-and-cream complexions, witty turns-of-phrase and manners honed to kill with such kindness, you don't realize you've been stabbed until your adversary's left the room. Glorious. Then, there are all those retro-minded clothing and accessories companies dating back a hundred years or so–the Mackintoshes, Harris Tweeds and Globe-Trotters of the world–still turning out quirky-but-practical classics (now with modern twists). What would we do without them?

Another name on the list is Sunspel, a brand we've long admired for making underwear and tee shirts so old-fashioned, they look new again. This one's been around since 1860 (when Queen Victoria sat on the throne), but in recent years the company's been updating its image while remaining slightly under the sweep of Fashion's radar. But that may soon change. This summer, Sunspel is launching a collection of polo shirts and tees drawn from its archives, and we suspect lots of stylish guys (and girls) will want to own at least one. As they say, order now to avoid disappointment. And wave that Union Jack with pride.

Photograph courtesy of Sunspel

A Watch For Men With All the Time in the World

For several years now, we've been following Louis Vuitton's determined-but-cautious steps into the world of haute horlogerie (fine watchmaking), from the brand's awkward first attempts to its recent, and much more respectable, high-end efforts. In the company's favor, LV has at least shown enough savvy to learn from past mistakes, and its perseverance now seems to be paying off.

This handsome timepiece, above, presented at the recent Basel watch fair, is a good case in point. It bears a big name–the Louis Vuitton Voyagez Tambour Automatic Chronograph Tachymeter–and an impressive pedigree: chronograph movements made by the distinguished Swiss manufacturer, Dubois Dépraz. Equally important, the entire watch-as-objet is particularly well-designed (which, surprisingly, isn't always the result when fashion companies turn their hands to fine watches), with a 44mm grey steel case, beautifully-aligned sub-dials and a sleek, carbon-fiber strap. Like the Hoover Dam or the Chrysler Building, it looks retro, contemporary and futuristic, all at once. Wear it and feel ahead of your time.

Valentine's Day Surprises for Him, Her and You

Valentine's Day–there, we said it. It's a freaky holiday that can be utterly sublime or incredibly ridiculous, depending on your partner's taste (or lack thereof). Two dozen red roses? No thank you. Chocolates? Perhaps–but only if they come from La Maison du Chocolat. Red silk undergarments? Not our thing: but while we're talking underwear, we wouldn't say no to a sexy little something from Armor-lux, Zimmerli, Roberto Cavalli or Missoni (please, no baggy plaid boxers or ugly briefs with logo waistbands). For the woman in your life who's partial to lingerie, we recommend Sabbia Rosa (which essentially requires a trip to Paris), La Perla or the super-chic ERES. If a bit more oomph is required, try Agent Provocateur (which just opened its second New York store, on Madison Avenue).

But there's no reason to stick with chocolates or lingerie. For your chic boyfriend, anything from Balmain's men's collection, Lanvin, or, if he's on the preppier side, Alexander Olch (not to mention Band of Outsiders) will make him smile. Your chic girlfriend? What could be nicer than devastating pumps from Christian Louboutin? Finally, if price is no object, something extraordinary–like the Cassel Pink Diamond (4.71 carats), set in an antique ring, above, and currently available at Rau Antiques in New Orleans–is the way to go. Especially if your Valentine happens to be...yourself. Fashion is fleeting, love burns hot (and may die,) but diamonds are everyone's best friends.

We Sing the Body Electric (and Fashionable)

Here at FA2L, we understand that fashion is about more than clothes: it touches every aspect of human culture, from architecture to furniture design to trends in cooking, art and parenting. Spookily enough, it also affects how the human body itself is perceived and presented. At the turn of the 19th century, for example, fashionable women's bodies were encased in corsets to produce the era's most-preferred,"S"-shaped form. By the 'teens, those same bodies (sans corsets) looked more and more tubular; and by the '20s, so-called waistlines had dropped to the hips, hair was cropped short and busts were often bandaged flat.

But women aren't the only sex to struggle with body issues: the male form has also been subject to fashion's changing whims. In the 20th century alone, men went from being celebrated as sleek, Art Deco icons (think Gary Cooper) to broad-shouldered, married-with-family types (William Holden, perhaps) to slim-hipped, long-haired rock & rollers like Mick Jagger. Then, in the early '80s, Bruce Weber trained his fashion-conscious lens on a specific breed: guys who were just as photogenic as girls (and just as pretty), but exaggeratedly masculine at the same time. This combination proved so powerful, it's been used to sell everything from Calvin Klein underwear to Gillette razors. Its current brokers are Milan's fashion elite–brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and DSquared2 (whose Spring '11 campaign, above, features the Adonis-like Diego Miguel, photographed by Mert & Marcus). Of course, digital retouching has also upped the ante, rendering fashion's young gods and goddesses virtually perfect. So–are you ready for your close-up?

We ♥ Cartier, Version 2.0: An Updated LOVE

Tinkering with an icon is tricky business: sometimes it works (VW's rounder, cuter, enormously popular reissued Beetle, for example) and sometimes it falls flat (New Coke, anyone?). So when we heard that Cartier was launching more jewelry based on its famous 1970 LOVE bracelet (above, left), we held our breath. Now, having seen the pieces unveiled, the verdict is in–many of the new designs are charming and easy to wear (though we still prefer the original), and there seems to be something for everyone. So one, two, three...and exhale.

The reason we prefer the original has more to do with symbolism than anything else: there's something deeply romantic about fixing a bracelet on one's wrist (using a Cartier screwdriver, of course) and never removing it. We're also fans of yellow gold and think the LOVE bracelet looks its best in that metal. These days, however, many people want white metals: hence the new collection's earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings in white or yellow gold (and black ceramic), with diamonds or colored stones. Our favorite is a white gold bracelet (above, right) with blue and pink sapphires, purple spinels, amethysts and aquamarines. It's built like the original, but brought up-to-date for 2010. If only all revamped classics could be as good.

Photograph by Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier 2010

Pyrenex & Alexis Mabille: Braving the Elements

We ♥ New York, but not its winters: they're icy, cold and just plain l-o-n-g. So although it's only October, and still relatively mild, we're already planning ahead–which is why this jacket caught our eye. It's part of a capsule collection designed by Alexis Mabille for Pyrenex, a 150-year-old French company specializing in high-quality goose down. If this coat's details are any indication, the partnership–Pyrenex x Alexis Mabille–is just about perfect. (We especially like the quilting, the removable hood, the many pockets and the two-way zipper.) Buy it online via Studio Homme and prepare to laugh at Mother Nature.

Azzedine Alaïa: Fashion's Rebel With a Cause

Fashion's faithful may all worship in different temples–but most make a pilgrimage, sooner or later, to the altar of Azzedine Alaïa. In the larger context of "designer fashion," Alaïa is an anomaly: he ignores trends, turns away retailers who rub him the wrong way and shows (and ships) collections according to his own idiosyncratic schedule. Which at least partially explains why, on Sunday, October 10–several days after most of the fashion flock had left Paris–Alaïa sent his models down his runway for the benefit of a favored few.

Women worship Azzedine Alaïa because Alaïa worships women–it's that simple. Few designers understand a woman's curves better than this nimble Tunisian, which has kept him in demand for 30 years. What did Stephanie Seymour wear to marry Peter Brant in 1995? A clingy white Alaïa gown literally sewn onto her by the designer. What did Naomi Campbell don for her recent court appearance in The Hague? A prim-yet-sexy cream Alaïa dress with a matching cardigan. And what have supermodels, socialites and other beauties been clamoring for since 1980? Alaïa, Alaïa and more Alaïa.

Sunday's show offered classics (like the slinky white column, above left), but some twists, too–namely, ballerina-like silhouettes pairing fitted tops with short, full skirts (imagine Dégas' Little Dancer as Daria and you'll have the idea). Alaïa is no stranger to full skirts, but this was a slight departure–the flare he gives to a skirt has typically sprung from the hip rather than this season's waist. It's a great look, but you've got to have the figure–and, more importantly, the legs–to carry it off. Fashion's gods are many things, but they're not forgiving.

At Versace Home, Bigger & Bolder is Better

Over the years, the Versace Home collection has been hit-or-miss: for every spectacular silk sheet set or porcelain place setting, there's been a handful of less-than-stellar offerings. Lately, however, everything from the men's and women's clothing collections to the brand's image campaigns has been wrestled back into shape. A new, higher standard seems to be the order of the day.

Case in point: Versace Home is now collaborating with the world-famous Venini, an 85-year-old Murano glass making firm, to produce limited-edition bowls and vases. Like many Versace designs, they're not for everyone, but we like them a lot. For one thing, they resonate like original notes from the '80s, playing perfectly into that decade's current revival. They're also big, bold and brash enough to sweep snobbery aside. Sometimes, good taste is just a matter of muscle.

If the World is Your Oyster, Van Cleef Has its Pearl

OK, we admit it: we have a real weakness for pink gold. And for bold rings. And, for that matter, for Van Cleef & Arpels. Over the years, we've enjoyed working with some of the house's highest of high jewelry, as well as some of its simplest. So imagine our pleasure, walking into VC&A's New York boutique on Fashion's Night Out, to discover its new Perlée collection of pink or white-gold earrings, bracelets and rings (named for those tiny, pearl-like beads). Heaven.

In fact, this perfect little collection has something for everyone, from relatively plain gold bands to flashier styles set with diamonds. And while everything's beautifully made (this is Van Cleef, after all) it's also blissfully free of pretension: most items are so simple and charming, an extravagant uncle, aunt or godparent could even bestow one on a lucky child. Understanding, of course, that Mom would have to keep it safe by wearing it herself (at least for a few years).

At Zilli, Perfection Is All in the (Many) Details

A custom shirt is a little luxury that can make any man feel like Master of the Universe–in the hands of talented tailors, fabric can be coaxed into flattering difficult skin tones, strengthening awkward faces and camouflaging less-than-perfect figures. Think of it as a sort of sartorial sleight-of-hand.

Here at FA2L, we've been lucky enough to enjoy the work of some of the world's best shirt makers–Charvet, Luigi Borrelli and Kiton among them. Most recently, we met the custom director for French label, Zilli. He took some 2o measurements (a "difficult" customer may require 3o) while explaining that he sources fabrics from mills around the world: England, Italy and Switzerland. We chose a sky blue Italian linen. We also chose to add our monogram just below the rib cage, on the left side–hand embroidered in white, with a navy drop shadow, no less.

A month or so later, a lovely box arrived in the mail–and inside was the most beautiful shirt we've ever owned. The collar is crisp, flattering and beautifully mounted; the body is elegantly trim, with long, luxurious tails that tuck perfectly into jeans or khakis; and the monogram is impossibly chic. But then, as the company's US director says, "At Zilli, to be fantastic is a daily task." Our assessment? Mission accomplished.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Parker at dna models. Fashion assistant: Evie Cutshaw.

Levi's Curve ID for Women: It's a Booty Call

No item of clothing is more basic than blue jeans, but finding a flattering pair is difficult for many women. Levi's hopes to change that with Curve ID, which FA2L recently previewed at the company's New York store on lower Broadway. Our shapely intern (let's call her E.V.) stood patiently while she was measured for her differential–the slope of her curves–and questioned about past experiences: Did waistbands tend to gap? Were jeans that fit her hips too tight elsewhere? Then she was handed two pairs and asked to give them a try.

It's nice when a woman comes out of a dressing room wearing a big smile–and E.V. positively glowed with the combination of sun-kissed skin, good hair (new cut and color) and a pair of bum-flattering, medium-dark jeans that hugged her curves and made her legs look impossibly long. She'd tried on the salesperson's first suggestion, and was so happy she didn't bother with a second opinion. Of course, new jeans require new shoes (and words like Christian Louboutin definitely entered that conversation). Men of New York, beware! E.V. is stepping out, and you guys won't know what's hit you.

Photograph courtesy of Levi's

Addicted to the Scissor Sisters: Any Which Way

From Fashionable Travel to Fashion As Furniture

It's rare to find old Louis Vuitton trunks in good condition, because cases like this usually saw hard use over many years of service. Before air travel turned global circumnavigation into mere hops, skips and jumps, intrepid voyagers packed at least a month's worth of clothes and necessities into serious luggage; loaded it onto carriages, wagons or lorries; transferred it to ocean liners; collected it on the further shore; and continued the process indefinitely. Even a single Grand Tour could sorely test the strength of corners, locks and hinges (not to mention human limits of patience and endurance).

Still, trunks do show up from time to time, and they're always in great demand–not as trunks per se, since only old-school nomads and those hoping to mimic them bother schlepping gear in such an impractical way, but as status coffee tables. Rau Antiques, in New Orleans, currently has two low trunks like the one above, and an enormous, upright wardrobe that would look spectacular in a loft or a walk-in closet. Obviously, they're very expensive, but they're also good investments: the asking price for cases like this tends to go up every year. And even stuffing money in your mattress won't accomplish that.

PETROU\MAN: An Officer, Gentleman & Punk

New York is first and foremost the home of classic sportswear, but its runways and showrooms offer plenty of surprises in the realm of "forward" fashion. Last season, we came across an aggressive collection by Nicolas Petrou, who's toiled at other companies more than 15 years but recently launched his own line, PETROU\MAN, for which he's designing clothes refreshingly in and out of sync with current trends.

Diana Vreeland loved to say that Coco Chanel had very little taste, but all of it was good, whereas Elsa Schiaparelli (Chanel's rival, and a spectacularly inventive designer) had loads of taste, most of it bad. In other words, too much "good taste" can sometimes get in the way of good fashion. We happen to like Petrou's clothes because they're beautifully made but slightly outré: there's an odd, raffish quality to these pieces that suggests layers of traditional British tailoring, early-80s punk rebellion (all those safety pins!) plus a dollop of cool minimalism from the mid-90s. That's a lot to juggle, which is undoubtedly why the collection is only being sold at directional stores like Bellhaus, New York, and Joyce, in Hong Kong. (Of course, you can also check with the New York showroom–just call, or write, and ask very, very nicely.) Meanwhile, the safety pin jacket alone is a thing of beauty–worth, perhaps, even a ticket to China.

From top: 1) Wool tweed anorak and stretch pullover by PETROU\MAN. Velvet scarf by Maison Martin Margiela. 2) Wool topcoat, pants and cotton shirt by PETROU\MAN. Cotton scarf by Dior Homme. Boots by Christian Lacroix Homme. 3 & 4) Tie-dyed cotton jacket with safety pin shoulder details and wool drawstring pants by PETROU\MAN. Cotton shirt by Dior Homme. Stainless steel watch by Baume & Mercier. 5) Leather jacket by PETROU\MAN. Cotton shirt by Costume National Homme.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Parker at dna models. Fashion assistant: Evie Cutshaw.