The Latest Name In Shoes Belongs to Obi Cymatica

Obi Cymatica has been obsessed with fashion for as long as he can remember –– he spent much of his youth sketching one ensemble after another. But around his 18th birthday, it suddenly hit him: he spent far more time working out details of the footwear than the rest of the outfit, and shoes were always the most exuberant part of the finished sketch. It was at that point, as a Forest Hills high school student in Queens, that Cymatica made up his mind to become a shoe designer.

Obi Cymatica was born in Madagascar, to Nigerian parents, and spent most of his childhood in Nigeria. When he was 16, he moved with his family to New York. As a designer, he's self-taught, but extremely determined: barely out of his teens, he started his own label, established a relationship with a factory in Florence, and landed a retail account with the online designer shop, Saxa. Even now, at the slightly-less-tender age of 25, he still makes every decision about the design and manufacture of every pair of his boots and shoes. 

Cymatica's idols include Christian Louboutin, whose "attitude toward making shoes" he particularly admires, along with how Louboutin has managed to maintain the aura of an atelier-based shoemaker, while growing his business by leaps and bounds. But Cymatica's ne plus ultra is Manolo Blahnik. They met, once, and the young man found himself almost tongue-tied as he tried to express his admiration for his hero. "I said, Mr Blahnik, you don't understand –– it's because of you I'm a shoe designer. Because of you! I think he just smiled. But it's true."

As for what inspires him, Cymatica says he turns to music. "I put on music, and sit down to draw. It might be Eartha Kitt, or house music, Amy Winehouse or a movie soundtrack. I envision a woman in that musical environment, and start sketching. If it's romantic, maybe the shoes reveal a little more skin; if the music is strong, the shoes become stronger, too. I like strength. After all, shoes are armor for your feet."

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Leg model (and muse): Faustina Rose. Produced and styled by Mark Grischke for Fashion As a 2nd Language.

Move Over Guys: Antonio Azzuolo is Talking to Her

Arthur D, of IMG Men, wearing Antonio Azzuolo Fall 2014 and eyewear by Warby Parker.

At Fashion As a 2nd Language, we've been fans of Antonio Azzuolo since 2009 (see our first story about him here). He hails from Montreal, but his career has taken him around the world, from Milan to Paris and, ultimately, New York. Along the way, he's worked for some seriously big designer brands, including Hermès, Kenzo and Ralph Lauren. He's also honed an eye for detail that's become more distinctive with each season's menswear presentation––and, for Fall 2014, he's finally taken the jump and introduced a woman's collection as well.

Part of Antonio Azzuolo's lineup in the Warby Parker shop.

The show's notes drew attention to what we've already come to expect from Azzuolo––specifically, his sharp, sartorial silhouettes, deftly infused with hints of the avant-garde. ("Savile Row meets the Lower East Side," according to the press release.) What this means, in real-world terms, is clothing that's both wearable and, perhaps, a bit too much, depending on how many pieces one opts to wear together.

Extreme texture, shown as an option for both men and women.

Azzuolo tends to keep his palette simple––black, white, grey and navy are his staples––but this season, he also wove in shots of pale pink, dark rose and deep purple. Pieces were often layered, resulting in turtlenecks tucked inside shirt collars, with sweaters, tunics and jackets adding additional fabric to "frame" the face and neck (perhaps that's why Azzuolo chose to show at the eyeglass store, Warby Parker).

Boy, girl, boy, girl––good-looking clothes, all the way down the line.

Men's boots by Antonio Azzuolo for Giuliano Fujiwara; women's sandals by Santoni.

As much as we liked the clothes, we were also impressed by the shoes. The women's sandals and pumps were by Santoni, but the men's military-style boots and handsome lace-up oxfords were part of a collection Azzuolo designed for Giuliano Fujiwara (a name we haven't heard in a while). They literally grounded even Azzuolo's most ethereal looks, and added a few more "must-haves" to our Fall 2014 wish list.

Antonio Azzuolo, center, with models for his Fall 2014 men's and women's collections.

Azzuolo brings a unique sensibility to New York Fashion Week, one that occupies a niche outside the boundaries of classic American sportswear. His clothes suggest everything from Parisian chic to Williamsburg cool, with dashes of British propriety, Japanese quirkiness and Milanese rigor sprinkled throughout. Combining sweeping gestures and careful details, Azzuolo takes us on a trip around the world. And, like any good tour guide, he leaves us wanting more.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland

SWIMS: Beach-Bound, or Just Singin' In the Rain

Here at Fashion As a 2nd Language, we tend to champion items that are beautiful, rare and often handmade, but we also understand there's a time and place for practicality. Especially when we're heading to the beach–or, perhaps, forced to walk the dogs in the rain. Water is one of fashion's great levelers: it ruins fragile fabrics and fine leathers. But no one wants to wear ugly clothes or shoes, just to accommodate inclement weather. That's where the Norwegian company SWIMS comes in.

SWIMS accomplishes quite a feat: the perfect marriage of form and function in the design and manufacture of footwear, bags and outerwear. For example, the 24-Hour duffle is made of water-resistant nylon (with a waterproof zipper), but its chic straps are cut from vegetable-tanned leather. The Fabio sneaker has a nylon upper and that all-important rubber sole–but it's lined with leather and canvas (meaning it breathes). We happen to love both in bright orange, but there are plenty of options (as well as a full range of shoe styles). Remember: when it rains, it pours–and now you can be prepared.

Just In Time For Spring, A New Kind of Boat Shoe

Just when the sight of another deck shoe was about to make us scream, we received an email about a line of Spring 2013 shoes by Alejandro Ingelmo. Called "Made In Maine," this witty collection (for both men and women) crosses Ingelmo's urban sensibilities with preppy classics. The results–from boat shoes on extra-thick soles (like the Admiral, above), to chunky moccasins to neon-bright loafers–look surprisingly contemporary. And, yes, the shoes are, indeed, hand-sewn in Maine. How's that for a little Cuban-American ingenuity?

Walk More Than a Mile In Armando Cabral's Shoes

A selection of Armando Cabral's beautifully-detailed boots, shoes and sneakers

Although you may not know the name, you'll certainly know the face: Armando Cabral is instantly recognizable. The striking Portuguese model's sleek frame, elegant bone structure and flashing smile grace designer advertisements and catalogs (including J. Crew's) around the world. But recently, Cabral took a step in a new direction, and now designs a handsome collection of men's shoes, boots and sneakers.

The model-turned-designer, Armando Cabral

FA2L previewed the Fall 2012 collection several months ago, during New York Fashion Week, and we oohed and aahed over one sample after another. Cabral's styling is masculine, but chic: he uses wonderful details (beautiful leathers, welted soles and quality laces) in artful ways to make upscale versions of basic footwear, including work boots, brogues and high top sneakers. These last were real favorites: they're made of deerskin, with thick rubber soles, and look great in petrol grey.

A festive, candlelit display of Cabral's leather sneakers and boot

Look for Armando Cabral's designs at Odin stores (in New York); Steven Alan (in New York and Los Angeles); and, online, at Mr Porter. It's been said before but we'll say it again: your feet will thank you.

Photographs: top, by Ron Reeves; middle and bottom, by Stéphane Israël

White Shoes To Wear From Now Until Labor Day

Memorial Day has come and gone, and that means we've pulled out the white shoes. (Some traditions are just too sacred to break.) This season, we were particularly lucky, because the very considerate folks at Johnston & Murphy had just delivered a brand-new pair of cream-colored McPherson wingtips to our front door. Their only caveat? That we take a picture showing how we'd chosen to wear them. Simple enough: we were in Manhattan (the weather forecast had seemed iffy), and deciding how to sport these shoes in the city was easy. In our book, white shoes look best with slightly-short khakis or seersucker pants (like these Maison Martin Margiela trousers), and they're always worn without socks. Johnston & Murphy's designers seem to feel the same way about going sockless–these lace-ups look like traditional brogues, but they're built like luxurious sneakers, with full leather linings, extra padding and nothing to irritate a bare foot. Just put them on and go!

The House of Orange: Fashion & Luxury Royalty

Sometimes, it's just about the shoes–in this case, a canvas peep-toe bootie on a stacked heel and platform, trimmed in orange leather, buckled up the back and laced up the front. Who makes it? Isn't it obvious? There ought to be a Pantone color named Hermès orange...

In Fashion Land, It's Always Christmas in July

Christmas in July is fashion shorthand for an annual ritual–the unveiling of holiday collections during the hottest month of the year. It's a holdover from earlier eras of long magazine lead times, but we sometimes wonder if it still holds sway because it enforces a certain Darwinian ruthlessness. (Think of it as natural selection for party frocks.) As temperatures climb into the 90s and overheated editors schlep from one appointment to another, their patience, and attention spans, shorten dramatically. Products have one, brief moment in which to shine or wither away. Further proof that fashion is not for weaklings.

Jerome C. Rousseau's tartan pump probably wasn't designed with Yuletide in mind (Vivienne Westwood seems a more likely inspiration than Father Christmas), but seeing it reminds us that so-called holiday items will hit the shelves or be available online anytime between now and the holidays themselves. And therein lies the problem. Most women wouldn't wear this shoe every day, so they don't think to buy it now; however, there are plenty who will miss having it in their closets when parties roll around and it's long-gone from stores. In other words, strike while the iron is hot (whatever that means). It's the beautiful things you don't buy you always regret.

It's Summer, and the Wardrobe Should Be Easy

Here at FA2L, we love summer clothes but ask a lot of them: they should be comfortable, hold up to considerable wear and tear and, above all, look effortless–when it's 90 degrees in the shade, no one appreciates tricky effects. But that doesn't mean abandoning fashion.

In other words, there are basics, and then there are chic basics. So instead of flip-flops (best kept for the beach), women might want to consider French Sole's comfy, quilted leather ballerina flats from Manhattan's new French Sole Comfort store. Men, if the occasion calls for a tie, should skip heavy silk and try cotton knit versions by J.M. Dickens. As for hats, they're not just good-looking, they're smart: they protect your face and scalp from the broiling sun. This one's by Rod Keenan, who imbues each design with personality to spare. Meanwhile, "the basics" have been left far behind in the wake of a stylish summer.

Polaroid photographs by Anthony Philip Festa, www.anthonyphilipfesta.com.

Two Fashionable Heads Are Better Than One

Fashion–or, in this case, the fashion industry–is like a Russian matryoshka, one of those funny wooden dolls that opens to reveal another...and another...and so on. On one level, designers go about their jobs thinking up new temptations for wary shoppers; on another, deeper level, the industry reacts to trends having more to do with business models than skirt lengths.

For years now, the business side of fashion has been obsessed with collaboration, bringing two or more talents together in the hope they'll create something special. Think of it as fashion physics: one star plus another should produce a big bang. Sometimes it works (Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme), sometimes it doesn't (Isabel Toledo for Anne Klein) and sometimes, as with Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, the result is so much greater than the sum of its parts it becomes a fashion supernova. Very rare, of course, and usually unstable, but hot, hot, hot while it lasts.

FA2L's collaboration du jour isn't as hot as Karl's: in fact, it's much cooler. Tretorn, maker of Prepdom's favorite tennis shoes, let Comme des Garçons tweak its basic sneaker. We love the odd juxtaposition of labels, and the simple, understated shoes such subversive teamwork produced. Buy them now at Odin, NYC, and walk the fine line between The Preppy Handbook and Japanese fashion's avant-garde.

Gianvito Rossi: One, Two, Lace Up My Shoe...

We love a shoe like this, based on simple, even elegant lines but loaded with sexy details. Gianvito Rossi took an old-fashioned suede ankle boot, went at it with a buzz saw and presto!–Edwardian England, by way of Milan's runways. All the current trends are addressed, including a bulkier proportion for the foot (sans platform, which is a relief), laces and grommets, and safari or military influences (call it campaign chic). The only thing missing is a warning label about hidden maintenance costs: those cut-outs frame toes and heels, making regular pedicures de rigueur. Perfection has its price.

A Call to Action: Keith Haring's Art Comes Back

Almost anyone who lived in New York City in the 1980s felt engaged by Keith Haring's art in a way that 15th-century Florentines or 19th-century Parisians must have felt about the work of their local sculptors and painters: Haring's bold chalk drawings (sometimes tribal-looking, sometimes Dubuffet-like), often rendered on black panels in subway stations, were so common and distinctive they seemed as much a part of the landscape as the Chrysler Building. Like Andy Warhol before him, Haring used charm, wit and faux naiveté to address society's ills–crime, homelessness, corporate greed and, of course, the fear, prejudice and heartbreak caused by rising tides of HIV infections. Unlike Warhol, however, Haring usually favored heat-seeking, active optimism over cynicism's cool detachment.

Haring died in 1990, but his legacy is still with us–and as the 80s revival rolls on (set against a fresh hell of bewildering social problems), designers are looking back to his work for everything from its nostalgic value to its strong message (which we still want and need to hear, perhaps more than ever). The Keith Haring Foundation recently gave Zara and Tommy Hilfiger permission to use Haring's drawings on tees and sneakers: the former are sold in Zara stores (but not online), while the Hilfiger shoes are available at Colette, Paris, before launching globally in September. We're fans of both, and think Haring would be, too: he'd certainly love the shoes...

Photograph of Keith Haring and Bill T. Jones (1983) © Tseng Kwong Chi

Great Spring '10 Accessories Are Shirting the Issue

Women love to borrow men's clothes, especially great cotton shirts. There are two reasons, really: women associate garments with the guys who wear them, and they appreciate fine material. No argument here: at FA2L, we recognize the talismanic power of clothing, plus we're mad for traditional shirt fabrics. The names alone are exciting–chambray, madras, oxford cloth, poplin, batiste–and the glory of a well-made cotton button-down, produced by a first-class haberdasher (Charvet, perhaps, or Thom Browne's Black Fleece collection for Brooks Bros) is something beautiful to behold. Best of all, these fabrics, and shirts made from them, usually get better with time. They launder well, soften beautifully and gradually take on an owner's personality.

Women's fashion designers are obviously catching on: many Spring collections were inspired by, or made from, typical menswear fabrics (see Dries Van Noten or Céline). Two slightly more fanciful discoveries are shown above–Otis Batterbee's tattersall eye mask, with a velvet back and soft velvet straps to keep it in place (no more annoying, hair-pulling elastic bands); and Omelle's Jaewon sandal, which cleverly references a man's entire warm-weather wardrobe (including hints of a seersucker jacket, a small-brimmed hat, even old-fashioned spats). These shoes are so special, all they need is a breezy shirt (steal your boyfriend's) and some chic, tailored shorts–or, if you're not that brave, a pair of slim jeans. Slip them on and step into summer.

180g is the Parisian Way to Paint By Numbers

At the 180g boutique in Paris, in the Marais, all of the clothes and accessories on display–things like Nike sneakers, sleek leather jackets, pretty silk dresses, soft cotton sweaters and eye-catching scarves–can be hand-dyed or hand-painted any color you wish. If the concept seems reminiscent of those deeply-70s, do-it-yourself arts-and-crafts projects (remember leather punches? macrame?) fear not: this stuff isn't made by amateurs–in fact, it's really, really cool. In addition to fashion for men, women and kids, the shop also carries home furnishings (which can be customized) as well as striking original art. And whether you favor Prussian Blue, Moss Green or Bronze Shimmer, 180g has 99+ ways to color your world.

Dior Men: Head Over Heels For Leather & Laces

Sometimes fashion sparks love at first sight, but for every coup de foudre there's another suitor you're not quite sure about. Such was the case with FA2L and Kris Van Assche's high-topped, lace-wrapped sneakers (with zippers down the back) for Dior Homme. Men's fashion has a long lead time–this collection went down the runway in Paris last summer–and at first we thought these shoes looked bulky. But six months have passed, which is plenty of time for a change of heart. Now, as the sneakers arrive in stores, light dawns and we find ourselves in the throes of a serious crush. If you feel it too, visit Riccardi or Saks Fifth Avenue: with luck, your next affair will arrive by Valentine's Day.

Guardians of Temple Louboutin Have Red Soles

Before gaining notoriety as author of the first Simpsons episode, cartoonist Mimi Pond produced a slim volume called Shoes Never Lie (Berkley, 1985), the funniest monograph-cum-humor book ever written about footwear and lust. If you're a regular FA2L reader, you've seen it quoted here before. On the subject of red shoes, Pond waxed poetic:

Red shoes are possibly the darkest of all secrets that women keep from men. Though men are frustratingly immune to the lure of most footwear, red shoes are a different matter altogether. They allow you to hold the opposite sex in your sway. At the sight of them, men become befuddled and confused. They stammer and perspire and must pull at their neckties like some poor cartoon character. The funniest part of all is that they think it's your perfume, or your personality.

Christian Louboutin's own fame post-dates Pond's book, but the man knows from red shoes: his signature soles are lacquered a glossy, candied-apple crimson. He's also stretched heels to astonishing new heights, and, in the process, gained thousands of followers who attend each new collection like Delphic pronouncements. It's easy to imagine anthropologists of 2075 writing about Louboutin as the leader of a veritable cult, just as Roger Vivier, Charles Jourdan and Manolo Blahnik were before him. Meanwhile, some clever fashion student will probably find a way to combine vertiginous stilettos, shiny red soles and enough rocket fuel to launch late-21st-century stylistas into orbit.

Shake Your Bootie: Puma & Sergio Rossi Step Out

Sometimes, FA2L champions things that, admittedly, aren't long-term wardrobe investments the way custom-made loafers or haute couture gowns usually are. And that's fine. After all, a closet stocked with nothing but "investment" clothing is like a banquet without delicacies: no Champagne, no foie gras, no truffles and (heaven forbid) no dessert. Dull, dull, dull.

These high-heeled booties come from a collaboration between woefully under-appreciated Sergio Rossi and world-famous Puma. They're built on rubber soles with a sneaker's tread and rounded toes (not to mention all that lacing), but tower like supermodels on sexy 4" heels. Are they comfortable? Perhaps. Are they '80s throwbacks? Yes, in a good way. Will you keep them forever? Probably not. But FA2L suspects you'll have lots of fun in them while the party lasts.

It's October: Yet Another Excuse For New Shoes

This killer pump is by young British designer, Chrissie Morris, who takes inspiration from Art Deco's romantic geometry but pushes it to extremes. Specialties include towering heels (which she sculpts herself), retro-futuristic styling (with nods to Salvatore Ferragamo, Roger Vivier and Blade Runner) and exotic or metallic leathers. Marlene, above, has a stunning, cantilevered profile, hidden platform and stingray inserts. Guaranteed, as the name suggests, to turn any girl into a lightning rod for the right sort of trouble.

When the Going Gets Tough, the Tough Don Alaïa

The threat of a full-bore '80s revival can give one pause, but it also summons visions of powerful women wearing Azzedine Alaïa, one true bright spot–a fashion lodestar, in fact, still radiating brilliance–in an era that now seems light years away. A recent dash through the racks at Bergdorf Goodman saw my beautiful 23-year-old shopping companion literally stopped in her tracks by an Alaïa dress and swoon-inducing shoes. This brought to mind Suzy Gershman's Moscow Rule of Shopping, from Born to Shop. It was written before Russia joined the global marketplace, but the advice is sound:

The Moscow Rule of Shopping is one of my most basic shopping rules. Average
shoppers...want to see everything available, then return for the purchase of choice. However, if you live in Russia...you must buy something the minute you see it,
[or] it will be gone. Hence this international law: the Moscow Rule of
Shopping. Buy it when you see it, understanding that you may never see it again.

Alaïa is a notoriously contrary designer: he doesn't court the fashion press, he doesn't advertise (other than dressing some of the world's most beautiful models) and his shipments to retailers are haphazard, at best. Savvy women who stumble across his creations tend to snap them up, knowing they won't have a second chance. These shoes are at Browns, London (online, too). But hurry: She who hesitates is lost.

Corthay's Hand-Painted Shoes Have Heart & Sole

Men who love shoes love Pierre Corthay. He's charming, with a quiet demeanor that disguises grand obsessions. But set him loose at your feet and his eyes dance, his practiced hands fly, and his gestures--and enthusiasm--expand. Corthay knew from age 16 that he wanted to make shoes: He spent six years in technical school, then worked for John Lobb, Paris, and Olga Berluti; in 1990 he took over a retired boot maker's atelier near the Place Vendôme and launched his own company. The business grew quickly, thanks to good publicity, some windfall commissions (custom shoes for 50 founding members of Bridgehampton's Golf Club, 150 pairs for the Sultan of Brunei), and a partnership with his brother, Christophe. Bespoke service was always the enterprise's raison d'être, but both Corthays also wanted to make ready-to-wear collections in their newly-acquired factory just outside of Paris. While still relatively small, the company was suddenly able to expand: the brothers opened three Pierre Corthay shops in Japan, and began taking custom orders and selling ready-made shoes in a handful of European and American stores. In short, they went global.

On the sunny July day I visited, Corthay's atelier was humming at 8:30 in the morning. Antoine, a recently-hired 22-year-old craftsman, sat near open windows, bent over his task of stretching and trimming leather on wooden lasts. Stephane, a young patiniste, perched in another corner hand-coloring crocodile lace-ups: his hands moved rapidly, whisking each shoe with thin layers of pigment. A preternaturally hip Japanese man--taking a break from his regular job making Chanel couture shoes at nearby Massaro--occupied a table in the front hall, where he was methodically polishing each finished pair. Pierre was in the basement, deep in concentration as he pored over a customer's order and sorted through piles of lustrous, French-tanned skins from Le Puy and Alsace. Bespoke clients usually work directly with Pierre or Christophe, who measure their feet, observe their stance and then personally carve their lasts. Pierre also develops ready-to-wear models, overseeing the many steps between his original designs and standardized production. Perhaps his greatest challenge is keeping the factory staffed with talented craftspeople: machinery has streamlined some of the labor, but an enormous amount of handwork still goes into every pair of ready-to-wear shoes.

Paris is Paris is Paris--but a very small corner of it can be found at Leffot, on Christopher Street in Manhattan's West Village. Run by Steven Taffel, this tiny boutique (ignored by casual shoppers) sends out signals that mysteriously attract shoe-loving men. The store has one long table in its center, where gleaming pairs by Pierre Corthay sit next to shoes and boots from Gaziano & Girling, J.M. Weston and Edward Green, among others. Most of the shoemakers also visit the shop, for trunk shows and private appointments with bespoke clients. Go to Leffot soon, to enjoy the shoes, meet the owner and join the prestigious mailing list. Your feet will thank you.

www.corthay.fr
www.leffot.com

Photograph by Ron Reeves
www.ronreeves.com