Tani Underwear – Luxe Comfort For Today's Man

   There's a new brand of luxury underwear in town, and it's all about comfort. In fact, Tani may well be the most comfortable underwear you ever put on. It also perfectly demonstrates our cherished belief in the power of understatement –– you'll find no silly gimmicks, no bells and whistles, here. Instead, Tani trunks, briefs, boxers and loungewear are designed with both technological subtlety and extraordinary attention to detail. And, as should always be the case with great clothing, Tani underwear begins with great fabrics, like Micro Modal Air (made from Austrian beechwood), superfine Tencel, and high-grade Swiss cotton.

   Here at Fashion As a 2nd Language, we are freakishly obsessed with how clothing is designed and constructed, even (perhaps especially) when it comes to underwear. Extraneous seams or design elements are no-nos; so are things that itch, scratch, pull or snag. And while we're perfectly willing to dry clean more complicated garments, we firmly believe that underwear should go in and out of the washer and dryer and not suffer for it. With Tani, that's not too much to ask.

   The story behind Tani is interesting, too. It's a Chinese brand, with significant distribution (some 300 stores in Asia alone), but it's only now being introduced to America. The man behind its US launch is Adam Dinkes, CEO and president of Tani's wholesale business in Europe and the Americas. Dinkes and his partner, Yarden Gagnon (former VP of Design at Calvin Klein Underwear), know precisely what they've got, and who will crave it. For example, this Tuesday, April 8, Tani will be among the sponsors of New York's Jeffrey Fashion Cares, which is one of the industry's great parties, benefitting charities like the Hetrick-Martin Institute and Lambda Legal. Tani is even part of the event's online silent auction: take a look, bid on a week's worth of Tani underwear, and offer your support. In turn, Tani underwear will support you, in style and –– of course –– considerable comfort.

This portfolio: Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Model: Eric Bryant at Ford Models. Hair by Davide Marinelli for MUZE Salon. Produced and styled by Mark Grischke for Fashion As a 2nd Language.

Fashion credits, from top to bottom: 1) White brief by Tani. Vintage watch at Beth Frank. 2) Striped boxer brief by Tani. Tank top by Levi's. Sneakers by Maison Martin Margiela. 3) Slim boxer by Tani. Eyeglasses by Lafont. Vintage watch by Verdura. Leather flip-flops by Rainbow sandals. 4) Lounge pants by Tani. Vintage watch by Tissot. 5) Boxer brief by Tani. Sneakers by Brooks Heritage. Bath towel by Missoni.

Move Over Guys: Antonio Azzuolo is Talking to Her

Arthur D, of IMG Men, wearing Antonio Azzuolo Fall 2014 and eyewear by Warby Parker.

At Fashion As a 2nd Language, we've been fans of Antonio Azzuolo since 2009 (see our first story about him here). He hails from Montreal, but his career has taken him around the world, from Milan to Paris and, ultimately, New York. Along the way, he's worked for some seriously big designer brands, including Hermès, Kenzo and Ralph Lauren. He's also honed an eye for detail that's become more distinctive with each season's menswear presentation––and, for Fall 2014, he's finally taken the jump and introduced a woman's collection as well.

Part of Antonio Azzuolo's lineup in the Warby Parker shop.

The show's notes drew attention to what we've already come to expect from Azzuolo––specifically, his sharp, sartorial silhouettes, deftly infused with hints of the avant-garde. ("Savile Row meets the Lower East Side," according to the press release.) What this means, in real-world terms, is clothing that's both wearable and, perhaps, a bit too much, depending on how many pieces one opts to wear together.

Extreme texture, shown as an option for both men and women.

Azzuolo tends to keep his palette simple––black, white, grey and navy are his staples––but this season, he also wove in shots of pale pink, dark rose and deep purple. Pieces were often layered, resulting in turtlenecks tucked inside shirt collars, with sweaters, tunics and jackets adding additional fabric to "frame" the face and neck (perhaps that's why Azzuolo chose to show at the eyeglass store, Warby Parker).

Boy, girl, boy, girl––good-looking clothes, all the way down the line.

Men's boots by Antonio Azzuolo for Giuliano Fujiwara; women's sandals by Santoni.

As much as we liked the clothes, we were also impressed by the shoes. The women's sandals and pumps were by Santoni, but the men's military-style boots and handsome lace-up oxfords were part of a collection Azzuolo designed for Giuliano Fujiwara (a name we haven't heard in a while). They literally grounded even Azzuolo's most ethereal looks, and added a few more "must-haves" to our Fall 2014 wish list.

Antonio Azzuolo, center, with models for his Fall 2014 men's and women's collections.

Azzuolo brings a unique sensibility to New York Fashion Week, one that occupies a niche outside the boundaries of classic American sportswear. His clothes suggest everything from Parisian chic to Williamsburg cool, with dashes of British propriety, Japanese quirkiness and Milanese rigor sprinkled throughout. Combining sweeping gestures and careful details, Azzuolo takes us on a trip around the world. And, like any good tour guide, he leaves us wanting more.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland

ManuelRacim Makes a Shirt With Your Name On It

Manhattan has a new destination for made-to-measure shirts––a small shop in Tribeca called ManuelRacim––and after trying the company's service for ourselves, we suggest you run, no, race to take advantage of this very personable atelier. Conceived by co-founders Manuel Guardiola, above, and Racim Allouani, the store offers all the perks of a bespoke experience with absolutely none of the stuffiness. Whether you make an appointment or walk in off the street, you're guaranteed a warm welcome––and once you've had the pleasure of designing your own shirts, you may never buy ready-mades again.

A great shirt starts with great fabric, and ManuelRacim has dozens of European cottons and linens to obsess over. In our case, the deed was done: we'd visited the store a few days earlier and spotted this cotton print, above, tucked among the swatches. It was love at first sight.

Fabric in hand, it was time to work with ManuelRacim's in-house stylist to be measured (prominent collar bones, freakishly long arms) and to choose the details. A print this bold doesn't need much embellishment, so we took her excellent advice and opted for a small, trim, modern-looking collar and simple barrel cuffs, above; no chest pocket; a clean French placket; and very handsome, dark grey buttons.  

We always ask for monograms on custom shirts, and ManuelRacim is happy to oblige. Our stylist showed us fonts and colors, above, and suggested positioning the initials on our left cuff rather than the torso, where the fabric's pattern would probably render them invisible. 

Two weeks later, we were back in the store, trying on our new shirt. ManuelRacim works hand-in-hand with a small French factory, guaranteeing short production times––and they've streamlined the process so effectively, they can sell made-to-measure items at lower prices than ready-mades found elsewhere. In short, this little shirt company offers lots of bang for your buck, not to mention smiling service, without any nose-in-the-air attitude. We're thrilled with how our first shirt turned out: it fits perfectly, of course, and has that distinctive air of being a one-of-a-kind garment, never to be seen on anyone else. But don't just read about ManuelRacim––pay them a visit soon, and indulge in your own healthy dose of personalized style. 

Photographs by Noël Sutherland.

SWIMS: Beach-Bound, or Just Singin' In the Rain

Here at Fashion As a 2nd Language, we tend to champion items that are beautiful, rare and often handmade, but we also understand there's a time and place for practicality. Especially when we're heading to the beach–or, perhaps, forced to walk the dogs in the rain. Water is one of fashion's great levelers: it ruins fragile fabrics and fine leathers. But no one wants to wear ugly clothes or shoes, just to accommodate inclement weather. That's where the Norwegian company SWIMS comes in.

SWIMS accomplishes quite a feat: the perfect marriage of form and function in the design and manufacture of footwear, bags and outerwear. For example, the 24-Hour duffle is made of water-resistant nylon (with a waterproof zipper), but its chic straps are cut from vegetable-tanned leather. The Fabio sneaker has a nylon upper and that all-important rubber sole–but it's lined with leather and canvas (meaning it breathes). We happen to love both in bright orange, but there are plenty of options (as well as a full range of shoe styles). Remember: when it rains, it pours–and now you can be prepared.

Avshalom, Avshalom: Fine Gold Jewelry For Men

Bracelets and gold pendant by PerePaix. Cotton tank top by Robert P. Miller

Jewelry designer Avshalom Rave came to his craft almost by accident. After moving from Israel to New York to accommodate a boyfriend's career, he found himself becoming what he only half-jokingly describes as a "desperate housewife" in Manhattan. To amuse himself, he made jewelry he could wear around town–and was pleasantly surprised when other people liked his work and asked to buy it for themselves.

Gold pendant on leather cord by PerePaix.

Response was so great, in fact, that Rave soon found it necessary to set up shop in Tel Aviv, employing a small team of craftsmen and salespeople to produce and promote his necklaces, bracelets and rings for men. He named the endeavor PerePaix (French for "Father Peace," a play on his first name, Avshalom), and drew inspiration from the heritage of his mixed Mediterranean roots–an Egyptian mother, a Yemenite father and a childhood spend in Israel. The result? A range of bold pieces incorporating ancient symbols of heraldry and masculinity, reinterpreted with an artist's eye for elegant lines and fine details. 

Gold pendant on leather cord by PerePaix. Leather parka by Bally.

Until recently, Rave had worked almost exclusively in sterling silver, but this season he succumbed to the Midas touch (which we at FA2L happen to love). Rendered in 14k gold, PerePaix's symbols look like remnants of ancient civilizations–plunder from the siege of Troy, perhaps, or artifacts discovered in a long-lost Babylonian cache.

A portrait of the designer, Avshalom Rave

As for Rave himself, he's thrilled by the growing response to his work (if a bit daunted by the size of recent orders). His main goal for 2013 is to increase the number of stores carrying his jewelry–and, for that matter, the number of guys wearing it. We're fairly sure that as more and more men discover his designs, they'll be lining up to buy them.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Grooming by Davide Marinelli/MUZE Salon. Model: Clark Cord at Ford Models. Produced and styled by Mark Grischke for Fashion As a 2nd Language.

NY Fashion Week Hits Back at Hurricane Sandy

We here at Fashion As a 2nd Language have every reason to rail at Hurricane Sandy–the storm flooded the Financial District building where we live and work and forced us to evacuate to higher ground (i.e., the Bronx). So we were excited to learn that ISAORA, a New York-based performance clothing company, asked 13 artists to transform individual examples of the label's Tech 3-L riding shells (like the version by graffiti artist, KATSU, above). The jackets are being auctioned on eBay to raise funds for Hurricane Sandy relief. Interested? If so, act quickly: bids close Monday, February 11, at 10 a.m. Don't snooze or you'll lose. 

Just In Time For Spring, A New Kind of Boat Shoe

Just when the sight of another deck shoe was about to make us scream, we received an email about a line of Spring 2013 shoes by Alejandro Ingelmo. Called "Made In Maine," this witty collection (for both men and women) crosses Ingelmo's urban sensibilities with preppy classics. The results–from boat shoes on extra-thick soles (like the Admiral, above), to chunky moccasins to neon-bright loafers–look surprisingly contemporary. And, yes, the shoes are, indeed, hand-sewn in Maine. How's that for a little Cuban-American ingenuity?

Walk More Than a Mile In Armando Cabral's Shoes

A selection of Armando Cabral's beautifully-detailed boots, shoes and sneakers

Although you may not know the name, you'll certainly know the face: Armando Cabral is instantly recognizable. The striking Portuguese model's sleek frame, elegant bone structure and flashing smile grace designer advertisements and catalogs (including J. Crew's) around the world. But recently, Cabral took a step in a new direction, and now designs a handsome collection of men's shoes, boots and sneakers.

The model-turned-designer, Armando Cabral

FA2L previewed the Fall 2012 collection several months ago, during New York Fashion Week, and we oohed and aahed over one sample after another. Cabral's styling is masculine, but chic: he uses wonderful details (beautiful leathers, welted soles and quality laces) in artful ways to make upscale versions of basic footwear, including work boots, brogues and high top sneakers. These last were real favorites: they're made of deerskin, with thick rubber soles, and look great in petrol grey.

A festive, candlelit display of Cabral's leather sneakers and boot

Look for Armando Cabral's designs at Odin stores (in New York); Steven Alan (in New York and Los Angeles); and, online, at Mr Porter. It's been said before but we'll say it again: your feet will thank you.

Photographs: top, by Ron Reeves; middle and bottom, by Stéphane Israël

Hot Child In the City: A Sizzling Swimwear Review

As much as we love the beach, we can still appreciate the undeniable sultriness of an August weekend spent in the city. To avoid overheating, drink plenty of liquids; keep exertion to a minimum; and, of course, wear as little as possible. Modern swimwear offers every option, from low-cut racers to swim shorts finished so nicely, you could walk around town in them. In other words, how much to bare is for you to decide.

Swim shorts by T Christopher. Sunglasses by Blinde. Sandals by DSquared. Beach blanket by Hermès. In this portfolio: Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Bart G at Ford Models. Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Produced and styled by Mark Grischke for FA2L.

Low-rise Paradiso swimsuit by Kyle King. Rose-gold-and-turquoise necklace by TendenZa.

Multicolored Cabo swim trunks by 2(X)IST.  Stainless-steel watch by Omega.

Lavender-striped swim trunks with side pockets by Kyle King. Suede sandals by Hermès. 

Square-cut swimsuit by T Christopher. Leather-and-gold bracelet (worn on wrist) by H. Stern.

White Shoes To Wear From Now Until Labor Day

Memorial Day has come and gone, and that means we've pulled out the white shoes. (Some traditions are just too sacred to break.) This season, we were particularly lucky, because the very considerate folks at Johnston & Murphy had just delivered a brand-new pair of cream-colored McPherson wingtips to our front door. Their only caveat? That we take a picture showing how we'd chosen to wear them. Simple enough: we were in Manhattan (the weather forecast had seemed iffy), and deciding how to sport these shoes in the city was easy. In our book, white shoes look best with slightly-short khakis or seersucker pants (like these Maison Martin Margiela trousers), and they're always worn without socks. Johnston & Murphy's designers seem to feel the same way about going sockless–these lace-ups look like traditional brogues, but they're built like luxurious sneakers, with full leather linings, extra padding and nothing to irritate a bare foot. Just put them on and go!

For Dads, Grads & Other Lads: College Cuff Links

If you're still looking for a graduation present for a young man leaving college, or something for Father's Day, we'd like to suggest a pair of "College Colors" cuff links by the rather oddly-named (but very fine) American company, Baade II. Here at FA2L, we have a real horror of one-sided, "T"-backed or otherwise cheap-looking cuff links, but these beauties are the real deal: solid sterling silver or gold, with beautiful, hand-enameled cloisonné or champlevé vitreous faces. And the range of colors is extensive, so the school–and the man–you want to honor are sure to be represented.  

Brit Fashion: An Empire Built on Understatement

We'll quickly admit (at the drop of a chapeau, in fact) to loving most things French, but–surprise, surprise!–we're also closet Anglophiles. Why? Pretty peaches-and-cream complexions, witty turns-of-phrase and manners honed to kill with such kindness, you don't realize you've been stabbed until your adversary's left the room. Glorious. Then, there are all those retro-minded clothing and accessories companies dating back a hundred years or so–the Mackintoshes, Harris Tweeds and Globe-Trotters of the world–still turning out quirky-but-practical classics (now with modern twists). What would we do without them?

Another name on the list is Sunspel, a brand we've long admired for making underwear and tee shirts so old-fashioned, they look new again. This one's been around since 1860 (when Queen Victoria sat on the throne), but in recent years the company's been updating its image while remaining slightly under the sweep of Fashion's radar. But that may soon change. This summer, Sunspel is launching a collection of polo shirts and tees drawn from its archives, and we suspect lots of stylish guys (and girls) will want to own at least one. As they say, order now to avoid disappointment. And wave that Union Jack with pride.

Photograph courtesy of Sunspel

At Zilli, Perfection Is All in the (Many) Details

A custom shirt is a little luxury that can make any man feel like Master of the Universe–in the hands of talented tailors, fabric can be coaxed into flattering difficult skin tones, strengthening awkward faces and camouflaging less-than-perfect figures. Think of it as a sort of sartorial sleight-of-hand.

Here at FA2L, we've been lucky enough to enjoy the work of some of the world's best shirt makers–Charvet, Luigi Borrelli and Kiton among them. Most recently, we met the custom director for French label, Zilli. He took some 2o measurements (a "difficult" customer may require 3o) while explaining that he sources fabrics from mills around the world: England, Italy and Switzerland. We chose a sky blue Italian linen. We also chose to add our monogram just below the rib cage, on the left side–hand embroidered in white, with a navy drop shadow, no less.

A month or so later, a lovely box arrived in the mail–and inside was the most beautiful shirt we've ever owned. The collar is crisp, flattering and beautifully mounted; the body is elegantly trim, with long, luxurious tails that tuck perfectly into jeans or khakis; and the monogram is impossibly chic. But then, as the company's US director says, "At Zilli, to be fantastic is a daily task." Our assessment? Mission accomplished.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Parker at dna models. Fashion assistant: Evie Cutshaw.

PETROU\MAN: An Officer, Gentleman & Punk

New York is first and foremost the home of classic sportswear, but its runways and showrooms offer plenty of surprises in the realm of "forward" fashion. Last season, we came across an aggressive collection by Nicolas Petrou, who's toiled at other companies more than 15 years but recently launched his own line, PETROU\MAN, for which he's designing clothes refreshingly in and out of sync with current trends.

Diana Vreeland loved to say that Coco Chanel had very little taste, but all of it was good, whereas Elsa Schiaparelli (Chanel's rival, and a spectacularly inventive designer) had loads of taste, most of it bad. In other words, too much "good taste" can sometimes get in the way of good fashion. We happen to like Petrou's clothes because they're beautifully made but slightly outré: there's an odd, raffish quality to these pieces that suggests layers of traditional British tailoring, early-80s punk rebellion (all those safety pins!) plus a dollop of cool minimalism from the mid-90s. That's a lot to juggle, which is undoubtedly why the collection is only being sold at directional stores like Bellhaus, New York, and Joyce, in Hong Kong. (Of course, you can also check with the New York showroom–just call, or write, and ask very, very nicely.) Meanwhile, the safety pin jacket alone is a thing of beauty–worth, perhaps, even a ticket to China.

From top: 1) Wool tweed anorak and stretch pullover by PETROU\MAN. Velvet scarf by Maison Martin Margiela. 2) Wool topcoat, pants and cotton shirt by PETROU\MAN. Cotton scarf by Dior Homme. Boots by Christian Lacroix Homme. 3 & 4) Tie-dyed cotton jacket with safety pin shoulder details and wool drawstring pants by PETROU\MAN. Cotton shirt by Dior Homme. Stainless steel watch by Baume & Mercier. 5) Leather jacket by PETROU\MAN. Cotton shirt by Costume National Homme.

Photographs by Noël Sutherland. Hair by Davide Marinelli at De Berardinis. Model: Parker at dna models. Fashion assistant: Evie Cutshaw.

A Phoenix From the Ashes: The House of Versace

It's been a long time since we've felt anything more than nostalgic fondness for Versace products, but Donatella & Co recently kicked everything back into high gear. This was evident on Versace runways the last few seasons, and Fall's message is even stronger thanks to Mario Testino's slightly-tacky/mostly-chic (and decidedly in-your-face) ad campaign. All the elements are there: gorgeous girls, gorgeous boys, killer styling and really good clothes (the top photograph alone makes us want to run out and buy that leather jacket). Best of all, there's not a Medusa head, Greek key or logo in sight–which, for the house that Gianni built, truly represents a brave new design stance.

Burberry Prorsum: I'm Shopping As Fast As I Can

It's official: the fashion industry is jumping the shark by letting fashion junkies pre-order men's clothes and accessories that literally just came down the runway. Balmain did it last season–this time, it's Burberry Prorsum (ostensibly for Spring/Summer 2011). So you can buy a sharp cotton trench, a chic studded shoulder bag or a slim navy military coat now, and receive your order well before anyone else sees these products in stores. But it does beg the question–what's next? Perhaps brands will preview their runway shows, so editors, store buyers and other savvy customers can sit in the audience already dressed in the same clothes being shown on the models. By which point, the hamster wheel of fashion will be turning so fast it may all just become a blur.

180g is the Parisian Way to Paint By Numbers

At the 180g boutique in Paris, in the Marais, all of the clothes and accessories on display–things like Nike sneakers, sleek leather jackets, pretty silk dresses, soft cotton sweaters and eye-catching scarves–can be hand-dyed or hand-painted any color you wish. If the concept seems reminiscent of those deeply-70s, do-it-yourself arts-and-crafts projects (remember leather punches? macrame?) fear not: this stuff isn't made by amateurs–in fact, it's really, really cool. In addition to fashion for men, women and kids, the shop also carries home furnishings (which can be customized) as well as striking original art. And whether you favor Prussian Blue, Moss Green or Bronze Shimmer, 180g has 99+ ways to color your world.

Baby, It's Cold Outside–Time to Buy a Swimsuit

It's February, which means fashion's topsy-turvy retailing machine is delivering swimwear to stores. Women usually learn, at an early age, how to shop ahead of season; but for some mysterious reason, most guys do not. This wasn't always the case: in the early 20th century, stylish men (including college-aged boys) visited their tailors punctually and relied on local haberdashers or popular mail-order catalogs for sportswear and accessories. These days, however, the average male is likely to wait until last-minute house party invitations drive him into a department store in late July–at which point the best swimsuits will be gone, replaced by row after row of cashmere topcoats.

Part of learning to speak fashion fluently is becoming aware of this cycle, and exploiting it to advantage. If you're a true fashion junkie who has to have the latest model, hit stores early in the season (and develop relationships with salespeople who will call when coveted items are in their hands). If you care more about price than design, you can get along nicely with brands that specialize in basics. And online shopping offers the full gamut, from pre-ordering just-off-the-runway must-haves to great end-of-season sales.

Of course, buying swimwear is tricky, for obvious reasons: it leaves us mostly unclothed. Finding flattering options drives some guys to despair, especially when confronted with buff models like Ellis, above. FA2L's advice? Extra pounds are less noticeable in something hip-slung: wearing elastic at your natural waist only draws attention to the flabbiness of a spare tire. And while American men typically avoid tight bikinis (usually with good reason), a certain type of square-cut trunk, the Brazilian sunga, shouldn't be ruled out. Kyle King's versions (the first three, above) have full seats and enough fabric to drape, rather than bind, across the hips. (King's online shop will be up and running in March.) If you prefer something less daring, please avoid baggy jams (ubiquitous on American beaches for years) and remember that even out-of-shape men often have surprisingly good legs. Channel your inner lifeguard in Miguel Antoinne's slightly retro shorts, above, which are polite but still sexy. Then watch the mercury rise.

1: Swimsuit by Kyle King. Leather & gold necklace (as bracelet) by H. Stern. 2: Swimsuit by Kyle King. Sandals by Hermès. 3: Swimsuit by Kyle King. Sandals by DSquared. Beach towel by Hermès. 4: Shorts by Miguel Antoinne. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban. Sandals by DSquared. Leather & gold necklace by H. Stern.

Photographs by Michael Stratton. Grooming by Lorenzo Martone/Link NYLA. Ellis McCreadie/Major Models. Styled by Mark Grischke. © Fashion As a 2nd Language.